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any spl competitors?

8K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  SWAT_CRX 
#1 ·
couple questions? what frequency does your crx peak at, what year, and what did you deaden? any tips? i compete locally but never with a crx and plan to do so very soon.
 
#2 ·
hi :)

when i used to compete with the 1000 watt class i was bucking 146.6, about 68 herts is where i was sitting, you want the higher herts thats where your sound pressure will advance in, and you will need ammounts of power if you use bigger subs.... if you got a some what decent ammount of power i advise using entry lvl, what do you plant to use for your set-up or you going to start fresh?

also i went to my local menards and bought sound dended from their metal roofing section its like 90 dollars for a super huge roll of the stuff and it worked out great, thats when my frequency changed everything. but it matted everything i could reach and find in my rex includeing inside the plastic under the head liner, everything i could find man.

major key for spl : everything is in the design inside of the box.

i also recently just built a box for 8 12's cerwin vega vmax's to do hair tricks it hitting like 15 herts just to do hair tricks but its bad ass :D
 
#4 ·
thanks, so you were at 68 with your rex? i farted 148's with a single fi btl 12 in my matrix. power wise, i was using 2 rockford fosgate t20001bd's. i should actually post some of my boxes on here. i'm a local builder as well as a mod on a sound forum. the rex is already deadened, so i'm not worried about that. i was just wondering what some guys with experience with a crx were doing.

so those vmax's are playing 15hz tones? what does it hit? with that much cone area, you should be able to pull off a hair trick without getting that low.
 
#6 ·
your biggest problem you're going to run into, if you're going into non street beat you're gunna get ate alive... power wattage classes are different you can bascily use as many subs as you want but you gotta keep to that wrms power rate. personally i'd clamp your self and see where you're sitting on both amps man, because if you go to the 4k class bend over.... lol.

street beat you would of been ate too people are crazy in that class 2 10s hitting 155s n stuff. what is your box designed at what hert?
 
#8 ·
What type of deadener and how much you can use is going to also play a huge part. Since mines for DB Drag I can only use 4mm, so its Vibraflex for my little rex, she's got expensive tastes apparently. have yet to cover every nook but getting closer and closer. See how the testing goes but looking like perhaps street A (2 10's) off a Soundigital 16k

8 12's in the hatch would be so much fun..
 
#9 ·
for us, we run our comps off cone area and power is unlimited. we don't have enough competitors to separate walls, unlimited, street a etc. deadening is whatever so i can go up against someone who has a mdf roof and a wall as long as the cone area is the same. in the end, i'm thinking 2 10 as well.

this is my daily, or should i say was. i have a different box now.
 
#13 ·
like this:
Class A 1-101 sq. inches
Class B 102-160 sq. inches
Class C 161-260 sq. inches
Class D 261-354 sq. inches
Class E 355+ sq. inches

that's the cone area breakdown and power is unlimited. a lot of guys use their daily setups and some just go all out and fart. it's all in fun down here and we're all pretty tight knit.
 
#14 ·
lol,
1 power acoustic 12"
1 hifonics amp runnin 4 ohm, 311 watts
One burp at 58hz
143's legal, at show
144.7 best on the meter at home

total cost $142
being 8th in the country in my class while running just over 1/2 the power of my compititors...... priceless....

MWSPL, basic 1,
2 - 10's or 1 - 12" 500 watts max clamped power

I still tinker, but now I am more worried about the "car" than the stereo...
 
#16 ·
Back in 2006 I built a friends CRX (89 Si, no sunroof.. this was in Australia, sunroof was optional).
We had one Odyssey 2150 battery, 8 runs of 0g (4x for +ve, 4x for -ve). 2x DD 9512, one DD Z1 amp. I think the box was 2.5 cubic foot, with a single 10" port. It peaked around 54hz (maybe 53).

dB Drag Street B style (engine off) it posted 151.8dB with one Z1.
We added a second Z1 and it posted 152.7dB.



http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorst ... 7&Method=6
 
#18 ·
Well ive used my Crx for spl for the last 5 years, I know just about every trick ya wanna know to make that thing loud lol. Ive used a variety of different setups too. 1 12 2 12 3 12s, 6 tens 8 tens 10 tens 12 tens. With one 12 and one mmats 3500 i was doing a 156.5 in the Kick USACi style 153.2 on the dash legal. The pic you posted of your sub forward aero back is the box i used for that, It all varies as far a frequency though also....For USACi in the kick i thought my note was 68 for the longest time until i decided to test a lower note, then i found 62-64 was about 1db louder. So when your testing do a mid volume sweep then start testing every note from 56-72 at a higher volume(not Full Tilt), otherwise youll get a false reading of what note your actually loudest at. As far as deadening they are all different, except in 3 spots i can tell you, you can gain close to 2 db. Seal every hole in the doors that is worth .4 db, seal the speaker hole .3 db, drop your heater/AC fan housing so you can see the top of the fire wall and you will see a 3in X 4in wide hole that is worth .7-.8 by sealing it with hush mat. also if you make some Panels to go behind the radio down at the bottom by your ECU theres a hole that goes driver side to pass side, block those off is also worth .4 db
 
#19 ·
Honkyracer1 said:
how did your snorkle that port i've been trying for a while.

heat gun, torch. i havent figured it out.

tips =
Tutorial with pix here: http://decibelcar.com/index.php/menudiy/51-aeros.html

We did that storm pipe (7mm thick walls) with a big wok ;). Two guys pusing the pipe down and one heating the end. The secrets to get even pressure distribution and heat.

I did a pair of 4" ports last week from polypipe. You know the black storm water pipe ? Its got like 5mm thick walls ! Takes a very long time to get those done, I'd recommend you stick to PVC instead, it flares a lot easier (thinner) and you dont loose any real strength.
 
#22 ·
BlackIce said:
SWAT_CRX said:
also if you make some Panels to go behind the radio down at the bottom by your ECU theres a hole that goes driver side to pass side, block those off is also worth .4 db
Hrmmm, never heard this one before, I'll try it out ;)
Do you have to Cowl done up above your blower motor? that one there is a really good gain for sure i can probably show you where i am talking about right now actually ill go take a pic 2night since it is tore out at the moment!
 
#24 ·
SWAT_CRX said:
Do you have to Cowl done up above your blower motor? that one there is a really good gain for sure i can probably show you where i am talking about right now actually ill go take a pic 2night since it is tore out at the moment!
No I havent done in there. If you could provide pix that would be pretty awesome :D
 
#26 ·
crap man i totally forgot all about this lol ive already put everything back together i was doing a wire tuck, and figured id take all that stuff out since im not using it for SPL anymore. But basicallly take your blower motor housing assembly down and you will see the fresh air vent. I took a piece of Hushmat couple layers thick and put it up thereand sealed the whole thing off then put the blower motor back up. As for the behind the center console i made a couple of panels out of ABS plastic black to match my interior. Just use a piece of card board to get the shape right then transfer it over and jigsaw your shape. you want it to be oversize enough to slip behind the big plastic cover there and use it to block off going from side to side.
 
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