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Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Detailing, rust repair, body work, paint, body kits, interior upgrades and rebuilding.

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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:23 am

I tried one of those stud guns, make sure not to hold the trigger for to long because you can burn through.
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby REXzAcTLy904 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:23 am

Its coming along well :-)b ... remember you have a Y-49 yellow REX... Yellows are the most RARE. atleast you have paint... mine is covered up by D*MN FLAT BLACK! D*MN RICER KID BEFORE ME! :|
Umm... [crud] happens, then you step in it! -ReXZacTLy904-
REXY - DD- 1989 REX Si... ALL STOCK ( almost back to clean Y-49 status!)
HOMIE - 1998 HONDA CIVIC HX... ALL STOCK (SILVER) - STORAGE HOE FOR NOW.

Here's my thread for REXY..
http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=43846
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby ruthruthruth » Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:56 pm

any updates :D
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:41 pm

On Craiglist I found Dave, a guy in South Jersey, who was parting out an 88 Y49. I first pleaded with him not to part it out, but he says the underbody rust was beyond his abilities and funds to fix it. So after a three hour drive I arrive at Dave's place. He is also a CRX enthusiast and it has been the only car he has ever driven. If only everybody could be that lucky.

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I had arranged to swap my hood, my hatch, and sunroof. All of which were in the realm of repairing, but if you haven't noticed I haven't had as much time for my car as I used to. With how painfully slow I am at body work, I decided even with 3 hours of driving each way it would still be faster.

So we take the hatch off like pros...well minor league anyways. We threaded speaker wire up the side when pulling the harness up, this make putting the hatch back on easier.
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The old hatch had rust on one side, and the black portion at the top of the cover flaked through on each side.
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The new one doesn't look much different in the photo, but lacks rust and dents and flakiness.
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Before we put the hatch back on, I put on a figure out of Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer (3M Part # 8531) around where the hatch mounts. This is what Wes Vann used for re-skinning his roof.
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Water is the sworn enemy of CRXes, this should help keep it on the outside.
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We struggled putting the harness back in, actually just getting the plug back into the hole took us a good 10 minutes till we realized it was hitting the drainage tube. We put the hatch back on and closed it to find out...we did it wrong. We didn't adjust the location of the hatch bolts to make it close nicely which is basically making them align to their original spots. But after another 15 minutes of pushing and shoving we get it closing without hitting either side. I then transfer my painted windshield wiper, tested the brake lights and windshield wiper, cleaned it up and considered it done.
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Onto the front, where I don't know about you, but I keep my hood. :-P In about 2-3 minutes we had the hood off.
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You can see in the photo all the white spots on my hood along with the big gouge on the front of my hood.
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How's it looks like there so far.
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The hood isn't aligned perfectly, but that will be up to me adjusting the latch mechanism which is harder to do than it sounds without something that can leave an impression such as putty. But the car looks subtly better.
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We looked into the sun roof, but it was a bit rustier than I would like, so I passed on it. Dave sold me all this for only $85 which for all the work and time he saved me was a steal. I did leave my hood and hatch for the 88 Y49 in case some other guy wants to try his luck at rust repair.

I'm really close to being able to get the car painted. Now all I need to find is a 89/90 Y49 driver's side door.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby rex2nr » Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:55 pm

You should have grabbed the bumper while you were there- different year, yes but at least it's yellow
-Scott-
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby ruthruthruth » Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:56 pm

Awesome pleased for u
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:19 am

Jeff do work! :lol:
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby nylumiro24 » Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:28 pm

rex2nr wrote:You should have grabbed the bumper while you were there- different year, yes but at least it's yellow

x2 :-)b
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby balactm » Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:54 am

I read through all 19 pages of this last night and I am completely astonished at how much work you have put into your car. Your passion for the car and ownership of the car is awesome. Saying that even when it drives you insane and fights you every step of the way, you smile when you think about owning a crx; I think that's how most of us feel. So, keep up the good work, and if she hassles you, threaten her with selling her, that should teach her not to mess with you :D
91 CRX Si - Stinkbug, being rebuilt
2011 Honda Fit Sport 5sp - daily
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby Joshs_CRXsi » Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:37 pm

:-)b :-)b :-)b :-)b

I Wish I Was Near, I'd Head Over And Get Some Of Those Parts He Has! He Sounds Like A True Bloo Kind Of Guy. =]

And, You Got A Good Steal. Congrats And Everything Looks Much Better!
White 90' Si (Sold)
Rio Red 91' Si - HF (Gone)
Black 91' Si - B16a (Current)
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Sat Sep 25, 2010 7:41 pm

It's time to prove once again that I haven't forgotten about my car. I'm trying to get my car ready for winter and one of the things I've been living with is what I think is a warped rotor as I get a vibration with when braking that is proportional to speed. I knew it wasn't severely warped so I've lived with it since I've bought the car. I considered going to an Integra brake setup, but lately I haven't had time to find a good deal on one.

I jacked up my car and got to work. Taking off the caliper bolts is always fun, fortunately it was easier than anticipated. Having a lot of leverage really helps, and I use some cheater pipes to get the most I can. On the other hand, only one of the rotor screws decided to come out so I drilled out the other one.
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I flipped the rotor and found evidence of the warped rotor. You'll notice that the rotor only has rust in some areas, well that is only the areas that the brake pad is not coming in contact with. This means the surface is irregular and causing the minor braking annoyance. Looking at the rotors, I probably could have have had them cut, but replacing them is a sure fire way to fix the problem.
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It was late cause I had to make two trips...one to get drill bits and another for the C clamp... I thought I had both, but apparently I didn't! Oh well, the important thing is I got the rotor on.
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The next morning it took me a minute or two, but I got the new brake pads on. Those clips can be really tight! I looked at the old brake pads and they were actually barely worn, I probably could have reused them but this should put a future brake job off even further.
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I swung the caliper down, tightened the bolts, removed the screw (so it would stay balanced) and I was done with the driver side.
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Repeating the process on the driver side...

Had to drill a screw off on this side too, this was by far the longest part of the process.
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What it looks like with the rotor completely off.
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Putting the other brake pads and rotors on...
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Man the difference in the braking is noticeably smoother, it feels so much newer. :bounce: I know i do a lot of crazy stuff cause I have two cars, but doing your rotor and brake pads is within the realms of almost everybody here...just be sure you have drill bits and c-clamps first. :lol:
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:58 pm

Jeff pads make a huge differnece in braking. Next time you need front pads look into Hawk Hp+. I just put a set into my 94 4dr ex, it was out braking my type R setup crx.....
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby mr ink » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:49 pm

Whyd we stop?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Mon Feb 21, 2011 1:26 am

Sorry guys, my life got busy and I haven't had the energy to update this build thread. I also usually stop in the winter as I run out of good weather since I work outside. But I've done additional work on my car since I last updated, so I'll try to catch everybody back up.

During the summer, I realized my water pump was leaking and loosing coolant has been an ongoing battle I've been fighting for years now. I first thought it was due to a bolt on the water pump that was stripped out on the block. So in July I put in a longer bolt with a nut on the back of it. That didn't work. So then I thought it was my off brand water pump, but I needed an air compressor to get off the crankshaft pulley off.

It was around my birthday, so I decided it was time to TOOL UP! I bought a 15 gallon, 200 PSI air compressor and Husky Pro impact wrench capable of 550 ft/lb of torque! :love:
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So with the badassness of air tools I took that crankshaft pulley bolt off like it was nothing. I then replace the water pump with a Honda OEM water pump.

I decided to lightly sand the area around the water pump to take off anything on the surface that could be causing a problem.
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It looks a little cleaner.
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A Honda Yamada Water pump costs $58.86, which is more than twice as much as an off brand.
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And it's in...
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I threw in a new tensioner and timing belt while I was at it for another $41.56.
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Trying to get this bolt on the back of the water pump with a stuck alternator in the way is difficult, so I came up with a way that used a magnet to hold the nut onto the wrench.
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Want to see what happens when you forget to tighten the tensioner pulley correctly? :doh:
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It makes a lot of scary noise as it grinds away on the cover. I decided I couldn't trust the timing belt after that, so I spent another $22.66 on another Timing Belt....and I repeated the entire procedure again.

And after all that money and effort.

It still leaked! :frusty:

I can only conclude, I need a sealant around the water pump.

During the course of the working on the water pump I realized my alternator through bolt was super rusty making my alternator make noise and made it difficult to adjust the belt. I could not get this out, not with a sledge hammer, small torch, rust removers, etc and spent a weekend or two cursing at it and that didn't work either, but I felt a little better.

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I ended up bringing it to my friend's shop so he could super heat it with an acetylene torch and we knocked it out.

I bought the alternator through bolt, mount bolts and the HondaBont HT for $21.79.
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There are cheaper alternatives to HondaBond, but I wanted to do it by the book now.
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I took the valve cover off, and the timing belt off again, I did this at least half a dozen times and started to get really good at it. I put on a very liberal amount of HondaBond.
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The good news is I greatly reduced the rate of coolant lose and I no longer saw it dripping coolant. :woot: I suspect it's leaking somewhere else now.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:16 am

Jeff its good to see you still working on this thing. The leak can be coming form the o ring on the back side of the block. Its on the black tube in the back. It has a o ring on both sides of it.
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby imgoingforit » Mon Feb 21, 2011 1:40 pm

Ooh, nice tools. I'm jealous.
sxysweed wrote:They're good for cool points on NWP and that's about it.
jdmtruong wrote:had some rotas but u know gotta have the real rims
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:50 pm

I know I haven't been posting much lately, and after taking on a different job a year ago it's very unlikely I will ever return to my daily posting style. I still have my problematic CRX and I still haven't given up on fixing it up even though I'm having plenty of second thoughts about it. I'm trying hard for a reliable car here, but it sure has been fighting me every step of the way. :fencing:

After poorly setting my parking brake in December, I had my CRX roll back into the woods, hit a chunk of dirt that pushed the muffler up and cracked the muffler pipe. I never liked my wimpy looking muffler anyways so I replaced the resonator pipe and muffler with a stock muffler for a cost of $302.17.

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A few months ago my balding tires were starting to get risky so I spent $350 for new CS4 Touring tires. I think I took a 10% hit on my gas mileage when I put them on. I might get another skinnier set for summer driving and reserve this gripping tires for the winter.

Then about a week later I realized I was still losing coolant...and oil...and the coolant was murky when I filled it up. This strongly hinted that my old nemesis the blown head gasket has returned with a vengeance. I think it happened when last year my car over heated in stop and go traffic when I had a burst in one of my hoses. So my car has been sitting up on jack stands for the last few weeks. I finally got around to taking out the cylinder head today.

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Yeah, it looks like those pistons need some cleaning.

I was contemplating a mini me swap. I even went as far as to pick up most of a D16Z6. (I would need injectors, a coil and new pistons.) But have reconsidered when I realized I would have to run premium. I'd rather just go for a full D16Z6 swap that ran on 87 instead.

In the mean time I was thinking of just getting my car back up and running instead of rushing an engine rebuild. I have a few issues I have to resolve with the Arp head studs, and possibly getting the cylinder head cleaned up and leveled. I've had a lot of bad luck with my working on my car, and I was ready for screw ups going into it. But what I lack in luck, I try to make up with tenacity.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:38 am

Jeff get a y8 hg, new oem is about $30.
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby CrxMusix13 » Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:09 am

I still love this thread. :-)b
Check out my de-rice/restoration thread: http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=34912

Talk about a load of work...
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby imgoingforit » Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:40 am

What's the latest on this? Your most recent update shows snow on the ground! :wink:
sxysweed wrote:They're good for cool points on NWP and that's about it.
jdmtruong wrote:had some rotas but u know gotta have the real rims
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:47 am

imgoingforit wrote:What's the latest on this?


Well I disconnected the intake manifold from the cylinder head, and I hope to disassemble the cylinder head tomorrow. I'll try to take some pictures then.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby Nar » Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:28 pm

Hey man! Sorry i missed ya on chat! Whats the stat on the car? Keep on keepin on!! :)
My CRX Si
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"And the CRX still wins on design; aerodynamic block sander beats lumpy egg every time."
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:00 pm

Well I put it off long enough. After pulling the cylinder head, I went apart disassembling the sucker. Which didn't go as easily as I expected. But I with a few minor nicks to the head, I got the rockers off and the camshaft out. Then it came to the valves. I realized I needed a new tool. So I learned that with slight modification with a grinder, the Craftsman valve spring compressor ($22) works. One thing I've learned over the years, is I never regret getting the right tool.

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Be sure to wear protected eye wear when doing this, engine pieces work better in the car than in your eyes.

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Pulling the valve stem seals...sucked. I finally developed a technique of rocking and rotating in a circular pattern while not getting gripping too tight that worked, but my hands were still raw after getting all 16 out. I hated it so much I ordered a tool to get them out in the future.

I dropped the cylinder head off at a machine shop to have it degreased and milled. For $80, he took 6-8 thousandths off. crxvtec91 will be happy to know, I ordered a D16Z6 head gasket. The thinner head gasket and the milling should put me at about 9.69:1 compression. I'm hoping that it runs fine on 87 octane gas and a stock ECU, but I'll find out soon enough.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby crxvtec91 » Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:18 pm

Jeff it will run fine off 87 with a bit more pip. FYI a socket and a hammer makes quick work of removing the keepers while keeping them in one place. Also there is a better spring tool to put it back in, make it a lot easier.
My build thread: http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16812

500hp and 450ft/lbs @30psi

LOOK, go to UserControlPanel->UsercontrolPanel->Profile->UPDATE YOUR DAMN LOCATIONS K?
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Re: Haluska's 1990 Si Build

Postby haluska » Wed Aug 24, 2011 2:21 pm

I got the cylinder head back from the machine shop. What does degreasing and milling buy you?

Before
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After
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I also picked up some new OEM valve stem seals that I hope to be installing soon.
"It's not so much what we have in this life that matters. It's what we do with what we have." - Mr. Rogers
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