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Bart dutch crx ed9

9K views 37 replies 7 participants last post by  bregje 
#1 ·
Hi guys. Was looking around for some info and it would be nice to introduce myself.

Name is Bart from the netherlands and i drive a '91 crx ed9 with d16z5. And yes...tupperware was my thing but now it's time to make some changes.
As it was:




And then there were some changes:



Current updates:
Takata's:


New seats:


s2k 300mm front disks/calipers and ferodo pads:


Tow hook/rear lower strutbar:


wideband:


And the current update,full obd1 conversion:


Got questions...feel free to ask :)
 
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#2 ·
Oh man, so much potential!! What a race car this thig "was" now it's time to drive it across the masses in what Honda intended. Can't wait to see the build up, you got most of the parts on already, nice.

That green paint tho, I would work with it maybe, if not scratch it and put it down to the color you want. Looks to be a kinda buzz kill when you got a color on the outside and then when you open the door it's something completely different. Wow, it's gonna be clean if uo keep your goals in mind man. Good luck and welcome to the community Bart!
 
#3 ·
I hope the repaint of the bumpers changes the whole look of it, but the green has to stay. Even years ago while playing need for speed underground all my cars where this color, I love it. The front bumper lip stays black, same as the mb6 skirts that are laying around here. At the back there will be a laguna lip and diffuser. Exhaust will be changed for that.
Further more the hood has to go, carbon instead and the roof with carbon wrap. 17" has to go and change to 16".

Currently building a slightly modified engine to run 13 to 15 psi. Gear box will be fitted with mfactory lsd because the current 10psi is the max for a non lsd crx.

And if it looks like **** after all these mods I'll change it back to how it was :p
 
#5 ·
As i look at the old pics there was nothing wrong with it. Intercooler fits nice inside the front bumper, skirts are the same hight as the bumpers and the lines weren't that bad. Except that tupperware crap didn't fit nice and you had to repair it once or twice a year.

Now it's time for the oem look, hope that the real thing looks as nice as the pics in my head. Hope to get everything ready for paint next month... We'll see.
 
#6 ·
Yesyes...finally did some work today.

Yesterday my obd1 conversion arrived:


As you can see this won't fit properly:


So instead of solder and make it look like crap I decided to repin every wire to make it fit the obd0 plugs :




And so on so on:




After I lost complete track of what the hell I was actually doing,wires everywhere and the distributor almost was trown over Amsterdam,Zandvoort,ijmuiden I suddenly saw the light and an obd1/obd0 wannabee distributor was born.


Let's fire it up tomorrow and see how it runs...
 
#8 ·
Well...today wasn't a good day. Still no running engine.
Got a lot of info from this site but my wirecolor didn't match the standard obd1 wires:

obd0 to obd1
black yellow--->black/yellow (12v)
blue --->blue (rpm)

white thick--->yellow/green(ICM)
Orange ---->light blue (CYPP)
White ---> white(CYPM)
orange/blue--->orange/blue (TDCP)
white/blue --->white/blue (TDCM)
Blue/green --->black (CKPP)
blue/yellow ---> orange (CKPM)

As you can see the black,orange and light blue aren't the normal obd1 distributor wires so I had to take the distributor apart and follow them to its each own sensor.


I've tried to start him up in all possible different pinouts but nothing happened. You can understand that it was only a matter of time before the dizzy would fly trough the front window and the ecu was given to my dog as evening dinner,so it was better to take a break after that...

A friend of my is driving the same setup as mine,except his is n/a. Next weekend we will bolt on all of his parts (ecu/harnass/distributor) and keep changing it with mine till it doesn't start anymore. I think that's the fasted way to find the problem...

I really,really start to hate wires!
 
#10 ·
won't think that's possible. on the obd0 zc the dizzy has the tdc sensor "on top" inside the dizzy,the cyp sensor half way and the ckp outside on the front camgear.

Obd1 has it al in one dizzy...tdc down,cyp halfway and ckp on top.

To make it fit an obd0 housing you would have to change all of the inside,wich won't change the fact you have to repin...
 
#12 ·
I know the rotors are in diff locations but if the bore diameter of the CKP rotor is the same you still should be able to move it, no? I mean take the rotor off the OBD1 shaft and place it where it is on the OBD0 shaft.

At least when I took my OBD0 apart the CKP rotor came off easily.
 
#14 ·
Should be since all the sensors are interchangeable and a notched rotor is just... that.
I can only guess why they rearranged the order of the rotors. Maybe because there is less mechanical judder at the end with the bearing making for better signals. Necessary because the resolution of the magnetic pickup is not so great and there are 8 more notches on OBD1 CKP?
 
#25 ·
testfitting time:




start welding the downpipe and screamerpipe:




testfitted the hood. Got about 1cm clearence with the radiator cap,good enough for me:


Didn't like the way the piping ran to the throttle body,so i changed it...again...:






And did a compression check. It ain't perfect but it'll have to do:
 
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