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Cr-x Hydrolic clutch pedal install

7K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  RaulH 
#1 ·
Hello my name is Raul I'm from Phoenix az and I own an '88 crx HF.

In this post I will be sharing my solution to running a full hydro transmisison with no adapters or plates or stretched or Broken clutch pedals..

I bought a 1996 Honda Civic with a full b18b1 the car was wrecked Arron the rear bad.. sold the wheels made some cash of the interior and misc parts, then I cut it up.
Anyways that's how I came across my b series swap for my crx, so I found myself in this predicament I have a hydro transmission but a clutch cable, I did research for weeks about people bending the clutch pedal reinforce the weld and having a ****ty feel with hydro to cable adapters (your opinions do not matter on this subject) so I chose to convert to full hydrolic clutch pedal, ironically it came to me cutting up the civic so I Unbolted the pedal from the civic and went on to look at how mine was setup inside the crx.


As you can see here it's mostly a complete setup it doesn't unbolt like the eg pedal did I drew a line here where I cut with a sawzaw.
I used a stepped titanium drill bit to make the opening for my master cylinder and the bolts that hold her in place. Your civic eg pedal or integra pedal any hydro pedal you decide to use, has the mastercylibder mounted onto it so guess what? There's your bolt holes trace the. Ig center for the master cyl and the two bolts and get your stepped drill bit and get to drilling becareful stopping and making sure only the master cylinder makes it through the hole you're making in the firewall. Mine came out right next to my booster.


After cutting it off basically put it up to where your old pedal used to be I got lucky and the way I cut it I was able to keep some metal from the old pedal and was able to bolt it on like so:


I ran this with only that bolt there holding it and the clutch master cylinder bolts through the firewall where the only things holding it in place for over a year before I welded it in place and put it where I wanted it exactly I was lazy the first time around and just slapped it in but it works GREAT! I finally put my car down for huge upgrades so decided to come back to it and fix it to my liking. I suggest you do it right the first time around lol.



I didn't document enough when I did it so these pictures are the little I did take and revised for a friend so he could follow the same steps I took so if y'all end up trying this please for the love of crx lol share them here for others too see!! I've swapped a poor man R b17 JDM itr trans since this swap and ran it for a year and a half plus.
My car still has the ITR trans but I now have a fully built lsV I'm in the process of turboing I hope this gives people the inceentetive to just do it for themselves it was damn near free for me except for paying for the stepped drill bit and some hardline to my slave cylinder.

 
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#2 ·
Very nice!! I'ld like to convert to hydro clutch at some point, but i want it to be as tidy as possible and with the master cylinder out of the cabin, like oem. Exactly how you did it. :)b
The area on the firewall that you drilled is it a flat area?? How does the hydro pedal fit with the other two?? Does it fit level with them??

Thanks,
Tasos
 
#3 ·
I believe i routed my headlight harness through a different hole and used that opening to fit the master cylinder and I mock tested and outlined my holes for the master cylinder I'll get fresh pics as soon as my phone charges some more.. but I daily drove a stage 4 ITR trans in an all motor setup. And as far as feel goes when I hop in my cousins b16 trans EK the clutch feels exactly how it goes on my crx .
 
#5 ·


Unfortunately there's hardly any lighting and my lsV swap is in right now I can't get any good pics of it inside the engine bay if I ever remove my booster ill be sure to take better pics of it from the bays side

Tasos it sitting level with them all depends on where you set your anchor point and the way you set it's positioning up the way you want it to sit. I suggest using a welder even though I didn't for 2 years tac welding it in place then welding to your original assembly then pulling it all out and fully welding it on. As you can see in my pics there was a nut and a bolt holding it to the original assembly although it worked for me for a long time I still suggest you weld it
 
#8 ·
A friend of mine said he did this a few years back but couldn't remember the details.
I was actually beginning to not believe him LOL
But now, here it is I can see it. Thanks for posting this. Maybe these photos will refresh his memory.

I'd like to convert to full Hydro. Like others I don't want an adapter plate or lose my vent. And I wanted to look OEM. Definitely interested in updates to this thread.
 
#9 ·
@Jeff yeah its straight forward my buddy actually drilled into my firewall after i told him the idea i had he was more down then i Was to drill into my car and hack off my old pedal xD! it's a good thing we're not completed useless haha.

the LS-V is out, replacing my hardline with steelbraided for nicer looks, its been about 3.5 yeas since i did the hydro pedal swap, its seen a ls trans for course of a little over a year, and it has seen awesome rape from my JDM ITR factory LSD hydro trans, unfortunately i never fired up my LS-V(forged internals) I'm going H/f2B, will upload new pics of where the clutch master cyl is sitting. (if anyone does this please share pics so that everything can stay well documented for others to reference!
 
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