Ok .. so .. still no VTEC and i'm gonna list some things i think may get me there ..
Please advise. Main UPDATE:
I think I heard VTEC kick in tonight,.. twice
On the first test, i failed to let the engine "warm up" smh
On the second test, about 4800 RPM I heard a sound i definitely never heard before ..
So at the next red light , i repeated the test and .. again around 4800 RMP .. same sound .. 1-
I need a cable VSS drive ( not a VSS , that's in my cluster )
> DONE < thanks Mr Bone ** NOTE:
can't seem to get the retaining clip in , not holding. Wedged in there good and working ok.
*** Plan to use a DA cable drive , the one with the power steering mech and hose that needs to be looped.
*** just fill that with regular 10w30 or should i put hydraulic fluid in there ?
I think this is the best option even though i've read that any D-Series manual trans drive would work
I'd rather use a cable drive designed for the B-series trans .. i think there's a gear alignment issue with the d-series drive. < Mr Bone .. what's the verdict , i've seen some info about swapping the gear mech but can't seem to find it when i'm looking for it .. stumbled across this in the past , cant find when i'm looking .. SMH 2-
I need a to get any CEL issues solved because VTEC won't engage as a safety precaution with a CEL light.
true / false ? ANSWER:
CEL issues "related" to VTEC need to be cleared. (eg: IACV code , ok )
As noted below, I'm only getting code 14 for IACV.
3- Knock sensor - No Knock sensor .. i've hear both .. a) i got an obd1 P72 stock no chip , no mods < SEE UPDATE
b) I've read that the P28 obd1 doesn't need knock but the stock P72 does ( all DOHC ECU need knock info )
c) knock sensor is a good thing to have , prevents detonation.
*** the only reason i haven't connected knock is because i can't get the connector off to solder and heat shrink and it;s ghetto wired with a twist & tape. I want to do it right. UPDATE:
i don't get a code for the un-connected Knock Sensor .. hmm , is my ECU chipped ?
Is this "jumpered" in the OBD0 to OBD1 jumper harness ?
Not sure but , i do seem to be getting VTEC.
4-I get a really high idle with the IACV connected , covering the holes indicates the FITV is ok and my idle drops normally from cold to hot with the IACV disconnected.
STUCK IACV ?
5- I'm using the stock GSR MAP , some people say to use the HF firewall mounted MAP.
true / false etc ..
*** could this be my hight idle problem and NOT the IACV ?
( corrected / edited ) MAP not TPS ( thnx mossin_90, for pointing out my error ) 6-
Not sure what my codes are , haven't tried that yet , got the switch wired in ..
not 100% sure of the process here, never had a CEL light before. I'm sure one of them is for IACV since it's disconnected.UPDATE:
.. only code I get is "14" which is IACV , which kind of expected. ( un-connected ) 7-
Even after i get all this straight , i may have a failed vtec solenoid .. any way to test that ? power it and listen for a click ? ANSWER:
Yes , it "can" be powered for a "click test" but there is a proper procedure that's more complete and analytical
Thanks in advance for your info and advice , really appreciated.
PS: i don't have any vacuum leaks and my IAB is functioning.
Throttle body / flap looks good closing all the way. looks clean in there.
Throttle cable adjust slightly loose, as per OEM spec , so that shouldn't be an issue.