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B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Engine swaps, bolt-ons, tuning, OBD-1 conversions, forced induction, suspension & brake upgrades, etc.

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B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby kracksmith » Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:26 pm

I'm thinking to get a B16 swap and can't decided if I should go OBD1. Any advantages of going OBD1? or stay with OBD0.


The package is if i stay with OBD0, it'll be cable tranny and PR3 or PW0

The OBD1 package is hydro tranny with PR3 or P30

Price difference above is 7 hundred bucks.


If it helps to answer, I plan to keep it stock B16 for daily driving a lot. Only reason to get this swap is to get in some power for the commute for passing on the FWY. My current 90 HF D15B6 gets super good gas mileage but sucks in passing traffic. So takes me forever to get from point A to point B.
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Re: B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby 4drSpankR » Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:48 am

I went OBD1 with my swap (B18C1) for a few reasons. Parts are a tad more common and tunability. (sp?) OBD0 tuning is considered archaic now, which is great if you want to just throw the motor in and go. But you and I both know, nothing stays that way forever. (There's a couple other points, but I'm on my lunch break and I want to eat. So I kept it simple 8) )

Plus you can get rid of that damn old resistor box! :-)b


If you want a factory-like swapped car and know for a fact you'll never mod or change anything EVER, then stay OBD0.
1991 HF - previously '90 B18A1 now '97 B18C1
1989 Si - running parts car/gone
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Re: B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby kracksmith » Wed Apr 05, 2017 1:48 pm

good point about the tuning for OBD1, i didn't think about that. other than tuning i don't plan to do anything else to the motor. maybe exhaust and header and cold air filter and that's it, stage 1 upgrade.
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Re: B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby blazercrx » Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:19 am

My B16 came OBD0 and I tried to keep it that way for as long as possible, thinking I was saving money by not switching it over, but you have to add a 2nd O2 sensor in the mix, while it seems like nothing to do, most of the time aftermarket headers don't come with 2 bungs in the proper locations for the ecu to read correctly. Then there's the IACV bolt pattern, the OBD0 has a wider pattern than the OBD1, not an issue unless you HAVE to replace it. ~$250 OBD0 if you can find a new one, ~$50 OBD1... If you do decide to stick with OBD0 I have a known good distributor, air intake and ecu if you ever need them :lol:
Along with the tuning abilities that SpankR mentioned.
Mista Bone wrote:The only LSD is what he has been smoking!

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Re: B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby jfrolang » Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:36 am

4drSpankR wrote:Plus you can get rid of that damn old resistor box! :-)b

I just want to point out that injectors don't have OBD levels. You can switch to newer high-impedance injectors and remove the resistor pack independent of the ECU.
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Re: B16 with OBD0 or OBD1

Postby 4drSpankR » Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:11 pm

jfrolang wrote:
4drSpankR wrote:Plus you can get rid of that damn old resistor box! :-)b

I just want to point out that injectors don't have OBD levels. You can switch to newer high-impedance injectors and remove the resistor pack independent of the ECU.



Good point, and I agree. Some people correlate the two since the newer (OBD+) engines have higher impedance injectors from the factory which means "no resistor box" if swapped into an older chassis. Good clarification jfro.
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