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Have I made a huge mistake?

2K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  jerjauvin 
#1 ·
Very new to all this and I'm very eager to learn.

I recently bought my second CRX. The first was an 87 Si with major rust problems that I kept for about a year then sold. Other than the rust, it was a decent car. I just wasn't sure how it would hold together in an accident.

The current car is a hybrid. It's a 89 CRX HF with a ZC engine and tranny. I gave $1400 for it. Body's pretty decent considering. Two owners back they wanted a race car.

I was pretty happy for a bit, until...

I had to replace the muffler. Not bad but, just the beginning.
Needs a new catalytic converter.
Left taillights were half full of water until I drained them with tiny drill holes.
Seller installed new ball joints and a tie rod but, when I took it in for an alignment they said I needed adjustable ball joints. I couldn't swing it (over $400 installed) so I told them to do the best they could. Still enough vibration to make me keep to slower speeds.
Rear tires have some dry rot.
Right rear disc brake may not be completely releasing.
Now I have an oscillating idle problem 500-1500 after it warms up (upon start it's at 1500). I've tried flushing the coolant and getting rid of any air. That helped a little but, the problem remains. I'm trying to figure out the vacuum system to check for leaks. Advanced Auto guy suggested it's the MAP. He also commented that it was odd that they kept the original fuel injector to use with the ZC engine.
ECU is giving me a 20 count, open or grounded circuit error.
I discovered I may be burning oil or at least leaking oil. The seller's oil change lasted about a month. I just happened to check the level and nothing registered on the stick. I suspect it's burning since there's a black film on the hood, which I easily wiped off. Doesn't seem the soot would be there unless something was burning. I suppose it could be an exhaust leak.
Engine is doing a weird stutter. I'm not sure if the timing is off or what. It drives OK but, I can just feel something going on, like the engine's not as smooth as it should be.

I think that's all.

I am enjoying the car as much as I can. The excellent gas mileage is a real bonus (esp compared to my Jeep). I really want to learn how to repair my car. I've always had a thing for CRXs and finally getting a 2nd gen is great but, I'm wondering if I'm in over my head.
 
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#2 ·
what did you expect for 1400 dollars though? It's either you know how to fix them one by one and have a nice reliable CRX or pay to fix it. If you said pay to fix, then it would of been best to find a clean one for 4000, or a 80% clean one for 3000. Anything under 3000, expect to get a lot of things repaired.
 
#3 ·
First thing's first, get one of these:

(You obviously need the 1989 version)
It will tell you the most of how to fix and do any work on your car; ESPECIALLY if you want to return it to stock. Avoid Haynes and Chiltons.

Second, adjustable balljoints? Wut? I have a feeling they wanted to change the camber, but the double wishbone design eliminates that need. Get regular ones off AM-auto or Rockauto and ask for a "toe alignment". If they still ask for "adjustable ones", agree or act dumb, then find a different shop to do your alignment.

Tires, brakes, and balljoints are standard service items. You'd need to replace them sometime anyway. Try to find out when the timing belt was last done or just put that on the to-do list. There's probly something done wrong in the wiring looms; use your service manual that you should have done first (lol) and a multimeter to follow and check the wires. I think that'll lead you the the underlying problem.

Wiring problems suck, just throwing that out there.
 
#4 ·
First off, welcome to the forum. :)b

These cars are old, most of them have been hacked apart or together by various people not really caring about the car. Doesn't help that that wiring is already most likely crumbling apart. If the body is straight, that's easy over half the battle.

The plus side is, these cars are very easy to work on and most replacement parts are fairly cheap. Make a list, (looks like you have a good one already) and slowly check things off of it as you learn. I've owned my car for 10 years and there's still stuff I need to do... :?

Like others have stated, find a new alignment shop. My car is lowered (nothing extreme), and I've never had to adjust my front camber. (rear, yes) I'm also a mechanic who does alignments..

Where are you located?

Also, make sure you check out the FAQ's in both the stock and modified sections in the forum, there is a TON of very useful infomation in there. Good luck!
 
#5 ·
kracksmith said:
what did you expect for 1400 dollars though?
About 12 years ago, I gave $350 for the 87 Si and had very little problems with it. I remember changing the plugs. It had been someone's daily driver and I did the same and it was a great experience. I only let it go because I was concerned about it's safety. So that's where I got my expectation.
 
#6 ·
4drSpankR said:
First off, welcome to the forum. :)b

Like others have stated, find a new alignment shop. My car is lowered (nothing extreme), and I've never had to adjust my front camber. (rear, yes) I'm also a mechanic who does alignments.
Glad to be here!
I think you're right on this. I also think they were really trying to up sell me. A skunk2 set is $187 online and I believe they were going to charge me around $280 for a set. From what I've read, I can install these, THEN get the alignment.

Where are you located?
Southern WV. Not a lot of CRXs still on the road around here. There's a dude close by has a ton of them sitting in his field (his plan being to fix them up and sell them in Florida) who I think would be a good practical resource.

Also, make sure you check out the FAQ's in both the stock and modified sections in the forum, there is a TON of very useful infomation in there. Good luck!
Thanks! I've been reading. I'm just trying to figure out what to tackle first (and let my bank regen).
 
#7 ·
Myriad said:
Second, adjustable balljoints? Wut? I have a feeling they wanted to change the camber, but the double wishbone design eliminates that need. Get regular ones off AM-auto or Rockauto and ask for a "toe alignment". If they still ask for "adjustable ones", agree or act dumb, then find a different shop to do your alignment.
Thanks for the tips. "Act dumb"? THAT I can do!!

I think the shop was looking for an up sale. The seller had just installed some new ball joints, so they are good.

I'll look for the service manual, especially since I can't this forum to the driveway.

I found some corrosion in the engine compartment fuse box, so I'll clean that out and go from there.
 
#10 ·
Rabban said:
Left taillights were half full of water until I drained them with tiny drill holes.
If this is how you're "fixing" things, then I would be worried you're over your head. :?

Rabban said:
I've always had a thing for CRXs and finally getting a 2nd gen is great but, I'm wondering if I'm in over my head.
Start here...
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44575
 
#12 ·
Rabban said:
Right rear disc brake may not be completely releasing.
HF's didn't come with rear disc brakes, so at some point someone else did a rear disc swap either from an SI or 90's integra. Sounds like a brake fluid flush would be of benefit to start with.
Rabban said:
Now I have an oscillating idle problem 500-1500 after it warms up (upon start it's at 1500). I've tried flushing the coolant and getting rid of any air. That helped a little but, the problem remains.
The IACV may need to be cleaned, it's known to cause idle fluctuations once warm.

Rabban said:
ECU is giving me a 20 count, open or grounded circuit error.
From Honda-tech
Code 20 - Electric Load Detector

First make sure you have a good battery....

Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.

If there is no voltage, check for:

Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
Pour ground (G201)
If there is voltage then goto the next step.....

Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
be approximately 5V.

If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....

Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.

Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
headlight low beam's.

There should be approximately 2V.

If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.
 
#13 ·
Hey man you don't sound like you're the diy mechanic type. Alot of the guys around here are mechanics or diyers that see your problems that are simple and easy to repair if you have the knowledge and time. Its hard enough to own a thirty year old car if youre not mechanically inclined but one that has a swap? It's asking a bit too much. I'm a semi professional mechanic and I'm getting a bit over whelmed with my swapped car. It's my recommendation that you sell the car and get a different one. I found my crx for 1200 and it was completely drivable with no necessary repairs for like the first six months. You can find decent ones out there which will give you the same satisfaction at a lower cost and without feeling in over your head. Just my 2 cents
 
#14 ·
Socal_88crxsi said:
Hey man you don't sound like you're the diy mechanic type.
Perhaps not, but I am a trouble shooter and a problem solver, having worked with computers for quite some time (which I'm now completely over). What I really lack at this point is knowledge and experience. Fortunately for me, I have this website, Eric the Car Guy (and others) on YouTube, and other reading sources. So, I'm grinding it out and slowly leveling. :D I'm getting invested in the process and I'm enjoying myself, even if I get frustrated from time to time. I still have my '99 Jeep Cherokee to drive, which is very solid, and I've even started maintaining it better thanks to my CRX learnin'. I guess I'm too invested right now and I'm loving my car, so I'm not ready to give up. Honestly, I love getting into it, figuring it out and making it work. There's a lot more satisfaction driving a car you've fixed yourself plus, the manly man factor is a boost. I can talk with the ******** better now. :wink:

But, I get where you're coming from and I appreciate your comments. A month ago I would have been more apt to take your advice. I may get there again but, one has to start somewhere and I feel I'm making progress. And I just got this new valve gasket kit in the mail, so...
 
#15 ·
I think that the CRX is a great car to start learning mechanics on. They are simple engines and you will understand them in very little time. Now with the internet it simplifies alot. I have completed alot of swaps in the last 6 years and let me tell you that without this forum and the general internet, i would have been at lost. Dont sell your Rex, the more you work on it the more you will enjoy driving her. It becomes a piece of your creation, its addicting believe me! :D

BUILT NOT BOUGHT! :)b
 
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