(Advertisements are not shown for registered users)

CRX Traction bars???? Where to get them???

Engine swaps, bolt-ons, tuning, OBD-1 conversions, forced induction, suspension & brake upgrades, etc.

Moderator: Moderators

CRX Traction bars???? Where to get them???

Postby BigDare23 » Mon May 28, 2007 1:53 am

I'm look for a set of traction bars (that replaces the crossmember and tie bars). Have anyone used them? If so, how did you like them and where did you get them them from? Thanks!
User avatar
BigDare23
 
Posts: 825
Joined: 11 Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA

(Advertisements are not shown for registered users)

Postby jfrolang » Mon May 28, 2007 2:30 am

If you ask me, the only one worth buying is Full-Race.

Image

As you can see, they replace the crossmember and radius rods, not the tie rods. :wink:

A couple of others that come to mind are Z10, Explicit Speed, JimFab, ETD Racing. I think the JimFab bars may be out of production.
Frost White '91 CRX
Glass roof shell for sale! - viewtopic.php?t=120681
Custom turbo setup, ported B16 head + more goodies for sale - viewtopic.php?t=104409
User avatar
jfrolang
Site Admin
 
Posts: 16564
Joined: 24 Aug 2005
Location: Boise, ID

Postby Krix » Mon May 28, 2007 9:06 am

Your right Jimfab is no longer. I used the Explicit speed kit and I loved it.
User avatar
Krix
 
Posts: 5346
Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Location: Salem, VA

Postby mattminerDOTcom » Mon May 28, 2007 10:03 am

Ive had 2 sets of the Z10 bars and was less then impressed with them. I ordered myself a set of Espeed bars for the new car, well see how these go.

-M@
just livin' here in the us, trying to live the tuner lifestyle. real deal here man, all overnighted from japan
User avatar
mattminerDOTcom
Wicked M@
 
Posts: 6632
Joined: 06 Mar 2005
Location: Narragansett, RI. Beachside :P

Postby mikesnacivic » Mon May 28, 2007 11:27 am

Should traction bars be used only for drag racing? I mean, do they have a negative impact on cornering? Thanks, I've been scouring boards since I bought the rex and haven't come across that answer yet.
User avatar
mikesnacivic
 
Posts: 512
Joined: 15 Apr 2007

Postby RamaCrx » Mon May 28, 2007 1:21 pm

mattminerDOTcom wrote:Ive had 2 sets of the Z10 bars and was less then impressed with them. I ordered myself a set of Espeed bars for the new car, well see how these go.

-M@


I have the ETD ones. They work I guess. I'm not sure any of these are really "traction bars" since they just replace the klunky front cross member but then put an adjustible rod in place of the radius rods that is for all practicle purposes the same. They all take up less room, so good for turbo. the Full-race ones require you use their radiator I am told. They look good though..... The best ones were said to be the Jimfab's but they are not in production anymore.
RamaCrx
 
Posts: 2304
Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Location: Memphis, TN

Postby signalpuke » Mon May 28, 2007 9:50 pm

I have the full race bars, love them. Very solid feel, solid design. I am using a Koyo half sized radiator, not designed by Full Race. Just had to fab a couple of lil mounts, no biggie.
signalpuke
 
Posts: 392
Joined: 25 Jan 2006

Postby ComposiMo » Mon May 28, 2007 11:00 pm

I liked the JimFabs better than any others, mainly because it still attached to the control arm like a stock unit.... the control arm needs that support from the radius rod, or else it can adversely affect the bushings (in my own engineering perspective).....

In in otherwords, if that point "could, or should" be flexible like the Full-Race bars, then i'm sure that Honda wouldn't have gone through the hassle that they did to make it bolt down securely and tightly to the radius rod.... and the JimFab bar did that nicely.

The only thing that i did not like about the JimFab, is that it did not give you really any more clearance than you had with a stock unit.


But don't fret.... there may be something available soon that will mount the way it needs to, and give the added clearance ;) ...
John.W
User avatar
ComposiMo
 
Posts: 2940
Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL

Postby jfrolang » Tue May 29, 2007 12:40 am

ComposiMo wrote:But don't fret.... there may be something available soon that will mount the way it needs to, and give the added clearance ;) ...

Do you perhaps need a customer to test your prototype? :P
Frost White '91 CRX
Glass roof shell for sale! - viewtopic.php?t=120681
Custom turbo setup, ported B16 head + more goodies for sale - viewtopic.php?t=104409
User avatar
jfrolang
Site Admin
 
Posts: 16564
Joined: 24 Aug 2005
Location: Boise, ID

Postby downest » Tue May 29, 2007 12:42 am

Or two? You want to make sure it works with D series right?
Tom Downes
'91 CRX Si B18C5 turbo race car project
'87 CRX Si Stock and slow flower pot
'88 4Runner daily driver
Wicked Innovation
User avatar
downest
Wicked Tom
 
Posts: 9964
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Location: Manchester, NH

Postby BigDare23 » Tue May 29, 2007 1:30 pm

jfrolang wrote:If you ask me, the only one worth buying is Full-Race.

Image

As you can see, they replace the crossmember and radius rods, not the tie rods. :wink:

A couple of others that come to mind are Z10, Explicit Speed, JimFab, ETD Racing. I think the JimFab bars may be out of production.


let have a loan then LOL

I dont like the fact that have to tilt your factory radiator or use theirs. Bars + rad = $700+

I just want some thing stronger than my crossmember, since thats the main thing wrong with my suspension


{Everyone else, I broke an axle going around a curve sending me into a ditch. The results were my crossmember shifting, a bent tie rod, and my passenger wheel sitting back like an inch. I replaced the bent stuff, but it's still not 100% (off like 1-2mm). I'm getting traction bars to force the wheel back into place (hopefully)}
User avatar
BigDare23
 
Posts: 825
Joined: 11 Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA

Postby RamaCrx » Tue May 29, 2007 2:01 pm

I think, but have to science to back it up, that the ETD which is not expensive, 250 plus shipping is stronger than the stock cross member. I think they have recently improved them and look stronger now.
Now as to pulling your wheel 2mm (I am not a frame guy buy any means) forward, I guess you could do that with a chain and then adjust the radius arm.
As I said before, I still don't get how these "traction bars" work better than the stock cross member and radius arms. They are so unlike the ones for rear drive cars. If someone could explain, I'd appreciate it.
RamaCrx
 
Posts: 2304
Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Location: Memphis, TN

Postby jmart » Tue May 29, 2007 2:36 pm

I always thought that traction bars were used to keep the suspension from fully compressing under a hard launch and also prevent axle rotation, for rwd cars at least.
Jason M.

1964 C10 - 1966 K10 - 1996 Bronco - 2008 CBR1000RR
User avatar
jmart
 
Posts: 2068
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Location: SoCal

Postby ComposiMo » Tue May 29, 2007 3:01 pm

Well to get "technical".....


Traction Bars: Often referred to as "wheelie bars", on a Front Wheel Drive application. These bars extend out the rear of the vehicle, and are intended to (while under load/acceleration) effectively make the active wheelbase of a car longer, thereby changing the physics of the car, and placing more weight over the front wheels (it moves the roll-center towards the back... think teeter-totter).

Radius Rods: Often referred to as "traction bars" on a Front Wheel Drive application. Intended to limit fore-aft movement of the front suspension to eliminate wheel hop. Most wheelhop is caused by the suspension travelling forward rapidly, and then reaching a limit/point and rebounding backwards, and then moving forwards again very rapidly... the cycle continues, and causes a "wheel hop" motion as the tire traverses from the front to the back (it is in contact with the ground going from the rear to the front).

Radius rods in ED/EF applications also do double-duty... they combine to create the forward-half of the lower control arm. A common misconception is that the cast-steel lower control arm is by itself the only LCA, when in fact the radius rod and cast steel portion combine to make one unit. This is also why having a heim joint connection on the lca is not exactly advantageous, as now the lca can rotate in a direction it was never meant to, and can cause accelerated bushing wear.
John.W
User avatar
ComposiMo
 
Posts: 2940
Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL

Postby Angry » Tue May 29, 2007 3:32 pm

Whats the opinion on the Innovative traction bar, as it uses the stock radius rods?
No car, just a work van.
I like my woman just how I like my roads.... Curvy!
User avatar
Angry
 
Posts: 3276
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Bluefield, WV

Postby ComposiMo » Tue May 29, 2007 4:17 pm

The thing i don't like about the innovative unit, is that it reminds me a LOT of the Place Racing crossmember replacement... the way the bushing supports are basically in "single shear", and seemingly not well supported don't give me much comfort. think about it.... this bar is taking pretty much the ENTIRE forward weight of the car on them under acceleration AND braking.

See where the bushings attach, and how the bushings are only supported on one side by a small bracket:
Image

Say the car weighs 2000lbs... under acceleration, lets assume that you have a lot done to your car, and are drag racing, and can get 1g of acceleration... that equals 4000lbs being pushed on the two tiny attachment points. Its even worse under braking... when you nail the brakes, with good tires, i'd venture to say that you could probably get it to steady-state about 2.5 G's or more with good tires and brakes... well, now we're talking 6000lbs or so pulling on the crossmember. not to mention G-Shock, like for instance when you first drop the clutch, the pulling force could be several thousand pounds for a millisecond or so...



So, that is one concern of mine with that setup.


the second, is that it still uses flexible bushings for the front, which will still allow for a touch of movement by the suspension... 1/4" of movement there (which is possible) could be 1/2" or so of movement at the wheel, which is enough to still allow wheel hop to occur.



Jonny_Black has one of the original Place Racing setups in his car, and on the starting line, i can physically watch his suspension move forward and backwards when he drops the clutch. Thats with some pretty stiff poly bushings in place.



Now....... for a street car, thats not all that bad of a thing... its how Honda had it set up, and would work fine. If you're needing a bar for clearance, or just want it, then having the bushings in the front isn't a bad thing at all. For performance applications, and if you're ever going to go to a track, i'd prefer a much stiffer front end setup. after driving both, you'll see that its well worth it to have the consistancy and stability in the front end. Either way though, i'd personally like to have it be better supported and even more structurally sufficient.
John.W
User avatar
ComposiMo
 
Posts: 2940
Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL

Postby Angry » Tue May 29, 2007 4:43 pm

This is some great info...!
So when does this new design go on sale? :D
No car, just a work van.
I like my woman just how I like my roads.... Curvy!
User avatar
Angry
 
Posts: 3276
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Bluefield, WV

Postby ComposiMo » Tue May 29, 2007 6:46 pm

It'll be a little bit (month or two).... there is a LOT more to do first:

http://www.panducky.com

;)
John.W
User avatar
ComposiMo
 
Posts: 2940
Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL

Postby GSRCRXsi » Wed May 30, 2007 8:05 pm

ive seen more than a few jimfab bars bent and broken (on the radius rod). its a good design but i like the full race better, mainly because of the added clearance that the jimfab seriously lacks.

and whoever said you have to lean the stock radiator, i have no idea what you are talking about. mine still fits like stock with the full race bar.
User avatar
GSRCRXsi
 
Posts: 663
Joined: 05 Mar 2005
Location: MD

(Advertisements are not shown for registered users)

Return to Modification Garage

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot] and 18 guests