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Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

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Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

Postby wetzelgw » Sun Oct 26, 2014 12:41 pm

I just bought a 1991 CRX Si with a DOHC ZC swap, knowing that the blower motor wasn't working, and that it had no radio. I have also discovered that the dimmer switch on the dash doesn't seem to be working. Ambient heat from the engine still blows through the vents, and the dash lights come on, so I'm starting with the stereo.

I bought a pretty basic single din Pioneer head unit, wired everything up, plugged everything in, re-connected the battery, turned on the car, and the head unit is not turning on. I checked all of the fuses, both under the dash and the 10A on the head unit, they are all good. I got out the multimeter and tested the 12V constant (white w/ blue stripe) and I am getting power there. The 12V ignition accessory (white w/ green stripe) is not getting power. While this is not good, shouldn't the stereo just continually stay on since its got the 12V constant power?
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Re: Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

Postby KevinEF7 » Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:13 pm

Make a better ground for the headunit, if you ground the black wire coming off the headunit straight to metal with a ring terminal (the metal center console cage would suffice) it should turn on.

Its been a while since Ive had my headunit out, but my constant and switched wires I believe were different color (red and red/ylw). Or are you listing the wire colors coming off of the pioneer harness

There is a lever to stop ambient outside air from coming through the vents, flip it to the other side if the breeze is pissing you off lol, its the little level under the vent in this picture

Image
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Re: Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

Postby wetzelgw » Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:22 pm

Thanks for the suggestion. I moved the ground from the headunit to connect to the metal center console cage but still no dice.

Most of the wiring diagrams I've found have indicated the +12V ignition wire from Honda is Yellow w/ a Red stripe, but I don't have that wire. I've found a few sources that say you will sometimes see White w/ a Green stripe, which is what I have.

I've also been keeping the lever open to keep the ambient air flowing, otherwise I have zero heat until I move onto fixing the blower...
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Re: Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

Postby wetzelgw » Sun Oct 26, 2014 4:46 pm

update: so I got the stereo to at least turn on by connecting the ignition wire from the head unit to the Red w/ Black stripe headlight dimmer switch and then turning the headlights on. I thought the headunit would work with the just the constant power, but I guess the stereo has a built in battery saving feature so it won't stay on and just drain the battery all day.

So it seems the real problem is that I'm not getting accessory power anywhere (i checked at the cigarette lighter, no go there either). I have found accessory relays for sale, but i have not found any pictures of where it is installed. Can anyone point it out to me so I can try and test that?
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Re: Electrical Issues, starting w/ Stereo installation

Postby suspendedhatch » Wed Nov 05, 2014 2:10 pm

The constant power wire is to retain memory for your stations and the last song that was playing on your CD etc. The stereo wont work with only constant power. On Hondas it is white/blue and is wired to the stereo's yellow wire.

Accessory power comes from the under dash fuse and is shared with several other things. This is what turns the stereo on and what it runs on. On Hondas it is yel/red and it's wired to the stereo's red wire. Check both of the fuse clips with the fuse removed on the under dash fuse box. One side should have power with the fuse removed, both sides with it installed. If this checks out fine, you need to trace the wire from where it leaves the fuse box and find where it's broken.

When I worked car audio, it wasn't cost effective to trace wires down this way so we'd simply tap an inline fuse holder off the ignition harness and run a new wire. That may be an option for you if your electrical skills are limited. I suggest a 10 or 15A fuse.

If your stereo is coming on by applying power to the red/black parking light wire, it's a fluke and shouldn't be relied upon. I have seen similar examples of where an alarm with no ground will find ground through the door pin switches and only work with the doors open etc. Electricity will find a way.
How to install your own car alarm.
http://www.civic-eg.com/causeforalarm/
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