HELP will this wire kit work for battery relocation?

[MexiChriS]

Don't know where to post this, sorry, but I'm wondering if this DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit will be okay to use for my battery relocation setup!? As it does have two sets of 4 gauge wiring buuuut I got no clue to wiring up a battery especially when relocating it to the rear of my car...

Product Features
- 1600W
- 17 feet 4 AWG Translucent Red LinkFlex Power Cable
- 3 feet 4 AWG Black LinkFlex Ground Cable
- 60 Amp AGU Gold Plated Fuse
- 6 feet Split Loom
- 17 feet Jammin‘ RCA Cable
- 17 feet 18 AWG Blue Remote Wire
- 25 feet 16 AWG Speaker Wire
- AGU Heat Resistant Fuse Holder
- Wire Ties & Accessories

http://www.amazon.com/PK4Z-Gauge-Power-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000Q6DLTK/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I33VTY77UJ1KSR&colid=36L1J34H961V1

I'm on an extremely low budget, so I can't afford a Monster cable kit or anything else above $30, which is why I've looked around for an alternative but I'm still unsure of an alternative route to choose to wire up my battery. Please help me out its only thing I need to get my car running

[MexiChriS]

Here's what I found out so far.... Parts List:
- Hawker Odyssey PC 680 battery
- Hawker SAE automotive battery terminals
- SAE terminal connectors
- Monster Cable® 500Watt amplifier installation kit - Includes:
18 feet of 4 gauge red insulated wire
3 feet of 4 gauge black insulated wire
Fuse holder
60 amp fuse
- Monster Cable® 4 gauge to 8 gauge power distribution block
- Heat shrink tubing
- Ring terminals
- Rubber coated cable straps
- Cable ties
- Assorted sheet metal screws

Taken from "CRX Battery Replacement and Relocation"
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/battrep/battrep.html


The kit I found is similar to Monster Cable, so I just ordered it, but now I'm just stuck on the whole Monster Cable 4 gauge to 8 gauge power distribution block.... WTF IS THAT & WHICH TO GET!? Amazon has several different ones, cheapest I seen was $13.54 so will this one work? Click the link---> http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-P200-PFD-12A/dp/B000FNXV30/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1288652931&sr=1-5
Shops around my area don't carry this stuff in stock, getting annoying hunting stuff down

[Ldo]

I think 4 gauge is too small to run all the way to the back of the car. Go with 0-gauge or at least 1-gauge to a distribution block in the bay, then you can use smaller 4-gauge wire from there to the starter and 8-gauge to the ECU. 60amp fuse is not enough also, try 100A fuse or circuit breaker.

Dist block is just a junction point with multiple outlets for you to run to multiple devices.

But there are people who claim and use 4-gauge all around with no issues. I'd rather go big and not have to worry about it.

[Gotin]

I used 4 gauge for the positive, negative and grounds. What I found out was, you cant cheap out on the wire because cheap wire might not measure to the advertised gauge. I pieced my kit together from www.partsexpress.com.

[MexiChriS]

I think 4 gauge is too small to run all the way to the back of the car. Go with 0-gauge or at least 1-gauge to a distribution block in the bay, then you can use smaller 4-gauge wire from there to the starter and 8-gauge to the ECU. 60amp fuse is not enough also, try 100A fuse or circuit breaker.

Dist block is just a junction point with multiple outlets for you to run to multiple devices.

But there are people who claim and use 4-gauge all around with no issues. I'd rather go big and not have to worry about it.

I kinda think that too, but I'm no expert at battery wiring, but I went to AutoZone and they sell cables w/terminals n 2-gauge, so that threw me off on what gauge size to use for my setup.

I'm gonna trust 4-gauge though, as I've seen/read up on a lot using/doing it; especially with that one link I posted about using Monster Cable kit on a CRX which a lot of people refer to that site to do + How to: CRX wire tuck (over 150 pics) @ ImportSNC.com used the same thing in his post. With that said, I'm going with that kit I found with the 4-gauge plus it seems like its enough as my car is basically wire tucked with my fuse box in the car passenger side.

BUT no way in hell am I using that 60 amp fuse [potty mouth] THAT gonna look for a 100-200 amp fuse & as for the Distribution Block i know whats its sorta for buuut never messed with one or know which to go about getting....

[MexiChriS]

I used 4 gauge for the positive, negative and grounds. What I found out was, you cant cheap out on the wire because cheap wire might not measure to the advertised gauge. I pieced my kit together from http://www.partsexpress.com.

Thanks for the input ...but I can't afford anything elsewhere except dealing with Amazon Signed up for that Amazon Prime 1-month trial which basically offers free 2nd day shipping. So I paid nothing for my shipping on that kit, now I just need to find proper Distribution Block & fuse (trying to stick with Monster Cable here but on a budget)

Def not trying to cheap out on wires, but if you read the review for the kit I listed, you'll see people wrote out good responses about the wire being its actual gauge size + in quality. So I'm trusting it, testing it out, and hope I get excellent quality/reliability/performance from it myself.

[memphis]

what are the sheet metal screws for? Please don't go putting holes in the floor board

[hammtheman65]

i would go to an electrical supply house they might be able to get you some cable for a decent price. i work as an electrican and if your going to go as large as 0 gauge i would try for dlo cable. it stands for diesel locomotive cable. we use it in our panels at work and you are able to get a higher ampacity out of a smaller gauge cable and its flexable as hell. might be a little pricey never really looked it up. just some thoughts

[MexiChriS]

what are the sheet metal screws for? Please don't go putting holes in the floor board

1) Confused as to what your asking me & why....???
2) What's wrong with putting wholes in the floorboard?

So half the [crud] in the back is literally already close to having wholes made anyways. Especially just about anything needed to be done as others do it too, like customization/fabrication. Not something I wanna do, though, but might need to for secure battery box placement. Don't want that crap flying or moving around

Anyways, where's the helpful input!? Did I read yours wrong....

[Gotin]

Block
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... N=84045227
Fuse
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=070-932
Fuse holder
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=070-660

I used the same website for my battery relocation and wire tuck

[nylumiro24]

I hope you know that that kit is for wiring an amplifier.

I used 4g cable from PepBoys to do mine. 10 bucks, 5 on red 5 on black. it was about 10 feet for each.

BTW, http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=1129

plus, this belongs in the electronic section...

[Honkyracer1]

2 ga welding cable works best.

[MexiChriS]

2 ga welding cable works best.

Yea I know, bigger the better, kinda like the whole upgrade thing of "The Big 3"

[MexiChriS]

Block
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... N=84045227
Fuse
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=070-932
Fuse holder
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=070-660

I used the same website for my battery relocation and wire tuck

That fuse is still to weak... Site doesn't have anything higher either... Suppose to be using at least 100, I'm trying to get at least that, but 200 on the safe side if I find one. You seriously used these parts yourself? As you said you used this site to wire tuck & battery relocation

[Gotin]

I use 60amp fuse with no problem. And it has work for me by blowing out the fuse when I forgot a ground during my wire tuck. It will work. The next step up is a 100 amp ANL fuse holder, which is more then you are paying for you amplifer wire kit.

[redrex424]

You could try using a set of jumper cables you can get at advance auto for like 10 bucks cut the ends off and buy battery post connectors that is how mine is done works perfect ive done it in two cars never had a problem out of either just my opinion

[MexiChriS]

You could try using a set of jumper cables you can get at advance auto for like 10 bucks cut the ends off and buy battery post connectors that is how mine is done works perfect ive done it in two cars never had a problem out of either just my opinion

AHAHA was gonna do that myself, but I need my jumper cables, I had figured they would work since hell they transfer juice from one battery to another so it should work as for powering/running a car. Great minds think alike I guess

I use 60amp fuse with no problem. And it has work for me by blowing out the fuse when I forgot a ground during my wire tuck. It will work. The next step up is a 100 amp ANL fuse holder, which is more then you are paying for you amplifer wire kit.

Wait, you said "I use 60amp fuse with no problem" are you saying your currently still using a 60amp AGU fuse?
Like this one: Gold AGU Fuse 60A 5 Pcs.

Anyways, I'm planning on ordering some 100-200amp ANL fuses + fuse holder. Don't know what you mean by it costing more than my wire kit, doesn't seem like it, almost nearing the amount + a power distribution block. Just having a hard time finding one on amazon


Hmmm... would it matter if I get 100-200amp ANL fuses if I decide to put back my sub/amplifier!? its a Dual heres an actual pic of it right--> here ...I just don't want issue's. This is all new to me

[Gotin]

I should elaborate. I used 4g wire for the poistive and negative. I have the battery in the trunk. I used a distribution block under the dash with one wire going to the fuse box and the other going to the starter. In the trunk, before the positive battery terminal, I have a 60amp fuse. I have been driving with this set up for a few months now and it works great.

I was giving an example of the 60 amp fuse being enough to protect the electrical system. After I completed my wire tuck I was able to turn the car on, but once I started it, the fuse would blow out (doing it's job because that is why you put a fuse there). I found out that I forgot to ground my starter. Once grounded, the entire system works.

I was using that narative to illistrate that you can save yourself the money and use a 60amp fuse and 4g wire for you battery relocation.

[Krix]

You could try using a set of jumper cables you can get at advance auto for like 10 bucks cut the ends off and buy battery post connectors that is how mine is done works perfect ive done it in two cars never had a problem out of either just my opinion

Be careful doing this. Many of the cheaper jumper cables on the market (ie made in china) are using aluminum wire with a copper colored coating. Also the amount of insulation vs. wire can vary from manufacturers as well. I run a 4 ga welding cable in mine now and the car before with no problems and it's really all that is needed. Going bigger won't hurt but smaller or incorrect wire can.

[Honkyracer1]

just buy a 0 GA wiring KIt, i've got them for 60 bucks at my shop, and a D block is inexpensive on the lines of 20 bucks max? 80 bucks for a kit isnt bad.