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How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

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How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby Security » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:30 am

*Disclaimer: I am not an expert. I cannot be held responsible should you mess up your car, or should you face legal complications because of your alarm/install.

This will be used as a how-to/build thread of sorts for doing a super-stealthy alarm install on a CRX. This is my first alarm install, I am no expert, just an enthusiast like you, but I will try my best to make this as accurate as possible.It should take about a week to complete. But I will try my best to post all wiring diagrams and be thorough in my posts.

Alarm Components:
Clifford Matrix 50.7X (Alarm Brain)
DEI/Directed 507M (Tilt Sensor)
DEI/Directed 509U (Ultrasonic Sensor)
DEI/Directed 520T (Back-up Battery/Sensor)
Omega AH-250 (Air Horn)

Alarm/Component Breakdown:
The Matrix 50.7X Brain/Kit is advertised as having one-mile range for it's 2-way pagers. That is the sole reason I chose that unit. It -should- have a integrated shock sensor and it comes with one siren.

The DEI 507M Tilt Sensor does exactly as it is named, it detects tilt. You can select to have it trigger the alarm at either 1* or 3* of detected tilt, and it has either a 10-second or 2-minute delay before it triggers the alarm. It will automatically detect if your parked on a slope and adjust from there, so that it works even if someone is lifting you car when your on a hill.

The DEI 509U is something I haven't seen used much. The sensor uses two 'nodes' and sound waves to detect changes in the air in the vehicle. It 'sees' what is in the car, and if something new is 'seen' it triggers the alarm. Reading reviews on it, it will trigger the alarm even if something inside the car falls (say you have a doll on the dash, and someone bumps into the car and it falls to the floor) or if the hatch/doors are opened. It *should* also work even with the windows open, to detect people reaching into your car.

The DEI 520T is a back-up battery for the brain. It will keep powering the alarm, to keep paging you and keep disabling the car, even when the car battery is disconnected. But it will also trigger the alarm if the car battery is disconnected (more on that later).

The Omega AH-250 is an air horn. Two trumpets and a 'can' holding a compressor. It will be placed outside the vehicle to add to the noise the alarm produces. It's only function for this alarm is to be LOUD. Very loud. Loud enough that it should have a warning. Use ear/hearing protection.

This alarm install won't use a Glass Break Sensor or a Proximity Sensor. If they smash the glass, the shock sensor and the ultrasonic sensor should pick it up (and possibly the tilt sensor, depending on how much the car moves). Should they open the door, one of the magentic switches will pick it up (and possibly the car's 'door ajar' sensors will be wired into the alarm). I'm not concerned with someone standing next to my car, as my neighbors are friendly and respectful, but there is also lots of foot traffic. I do not want the alarm to be going off or chirping every few minutes. This install will be meant to be full-stealth. Siren arm/disarm as well. I want the thieves to have no idea that the car has an alarm.

A note on redundancy:
This install will also have alot of redundant layers. If the hood is opened, a hood pin sensor will trigger the alarm. If that sensor fails and the battery is disconnected, the alarm will trigger. If the doors/trunk open, the door ajar and trunk ajar sensors that come with the car will trigger the alarm. If those fail, the Ultrasonic Sensor will trigger the alarm. If the car is bumped into, the shock sensor will trigger the alarm. If it is a particularly hard bump, the tilt sensor might pick it up, and trigger the alarm. All of these layers and all the redundancy is meant to make the alarm install even stronger.

Cost:
I so far, not including relays, wiring, connectors, labor, etc, just for the above mentioned items, I've spent about $450. I expect that I will spend a hair over $500 when it is all said and done. You can reduce this if you cut down on the redundancy and use less sirens and stuff. But for all the money and effort you put into your car, security should be a priority.

Note:
On that note, an alarm is only as good as the installation. If it is just zip-tied to the steering collumn, thieves will easily disable it. Although this instalation will be as good as I can make it, it WILL NOT be my only layer of security. A simple (or complex) alarm will not be good enough to protect your car. Layers of security are vital, as they will slow the thief down (or outright deter him). I will be making another thread on this subject, but there is also a good link in the FAQ to a HondaTuning article on the matter.

Hiding Locations:
There's a few great places to hide an alarm in a CRX and there's a few other places that will probably work equally well. IMO, the best place to hide an alarm is literally in the dash. If you pull the dashboard out, you can cut the dash pad that's just above the glovebox free. This will let you gain access to the air vent path, and is a great place to put an alarm brain. If you don't have AC/Heat, you can mount it back where the blower would be as well. Another good place hide the brain beneath the seats (what this install will cover; there is also a pretty good guide on HondaTech on this) or behind the plastic in the rear of the car, in the wheel wells.
Last edited by Security on Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:27 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: How-to: Stealth Alarm Install in a CRX/EF

Postby Security » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:17 pm

In this post I will try my best to explain where which wire goes, relative to my install.
Keep in mind that this is specific to the DEI Responder LC3 brain (Viper 5901, Clifford Matrix 50.7X, etc).

Keep in mind I will not be using any of the dome light supervision/flash functions, because I do not have a dome light. Nor will I be using/setting up remote start. I also do not have power door locks, so this write-up will not cover any of that.

All the Constant 12+ wires will be ran together when I do the install. The Ultrasonic 509U sensor does not come with a fuse, but I will install a inline 1amp fuse when I do the wiring/install.

All Instant Trigger/Blue wires will be ran together and connected to the H1/7 wire on the main harness. A small 1amp diode will be needed on each trigger wire (Radio Shack Part Numbers: 1N4001, 1N4004, 1N4007). This is to reduce interference/weird things happening with the alarm/problems with the sensors seeing power in the wrong place.

Tilt Sensor:
Red: Constant 12+ (Fused, 1amp).
Blue: Instant Trigger. H1/7 Blue on Main Harness. Needs 1amp diode.
Orange: (-) Ground-When-Armed. Orange wire (H1/12) on Main Harness.

Ultrasonic Sensor: Plug straight into extra sensor port on Alarm brain.
Red: Constant 12+.
Black: Chassis Ground.
Blue: Instant trigger.

Back-Up Battery Sensor:
Red (Fused, 15amp): Constant 12+.
Grey: 12+ Output. Run to Constant 12+ input of alarm brain, H1/2 on main harness.
Red (Middle): Run to red wire/connector on the back-up battery itself.
Black (Middle): Run to black wire/connector on the back-up battery itself.
Black (Outer): Ground.
Blue: Instant trigger. Run to H1/7 Blue on Main Harness. Needs 1amp diode.

Alternatively, here is a wiring diagram provided by DEI for the 520T:
Image
Last edited by Security on Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:04 pm, edited 7 times in total.
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Re: How-to: Stealth Alarm Install in a CRX/EF

Postby Security » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:24 pm

Only one wire from the H2 harness will be used for this install. The H3 Harness will not be used at all. Almost everything will be controlled by the H1 Main Harness. But for informative purposes, I'll include the pin-outs for all the harnesses.

For the below wires/harnesses, lines in RED will be deleted/not used.

Main Harness (H1):
H1/1: Red/White: (-) 200mA AUX/Trunk Output:
H1/2: Red: 12+ Constant input, 15amp fuse: Grey from Back-Up Battery.
H1/3: Brown: (+) Siren Output. Run to Relays for Siren/Fuel Kill.
H1/4: White/Brown: Parking Light/Isolation Wire, Pin 87a of onboard relay
H1/5: Black: (-) Chassis Ground.
H1/6: Violet: (+) Door Trigger Input.
H1/7: Blue: (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger. Instant trigger from sensors go here.
H1/8: Green: (-) Door Trigger Input. Green/Red for doors, Green/Black for trunk, wires along Driver's running board.
H1/9: Black/White: (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision Input.
H1/10: White/Blue: (-) Remote Start/Turbo Timer
H1/11: White: Parking Light Output.
H1/12: Orange: (-) 500mA Ground When Armed Output: Tilt Sensor Orange Wire.

H2 Harness, 18-Pin Connector:
H2/1: Light Green/Black: (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output
H2/2: Orange/Black: (-) 200mA AUX 4 Output
H2/3: Green/White: (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output
H2/4: Violet/Black: (-) 200mA AUX 2 Output
H2/5: White/Black: (-) 200mA AUX 3 Output
H2/6: White/Violet: (-) 200mA AUX 1 Output
H2/7: Grey/Black: (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input

H2/8: Brown/Black: (-2) 200mA Horn Honk Output: Ground for Air Horn Relay
H2/9: Violet/White: Tachometer Input
H2/10: Dark Blue: (-) 200mA Status Output
H2/11: Pink/White: (-) Flex Relay Control Output
H2/12: Orange: (-) 200mA Accessory Output
H2/13: Purple: (-) 200mA Starter Output
H2/14: Pink: (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output

H2/15: Grey: (-) Hood Pin Input (Normally Open or Normally Closed)
H2/16: Blue/White: (-) 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output
H2/17: Brown: (+) Brake Shutdown Input
H2/18: Black/White: Neutral Safety Input



Remote Start (H3) 10-Pin Connector:
H3/1: Pink: (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output: To Ignition (Black/Yellow wire on Ignition Switch Harness)
H3/2: Red/White: (87) Flex Relay Input (30Amp Fused): 12+ Input.
H3/3: Orange: (+) Accessory Output

H3/4: Violet: (+) Starter Output, Car Side of Starter Kill: One side of Fuel Pump Kill (Yellow, Black Stripe).
H3/5: Green: (+) Start Input, Key Side of Starter Kill: One side of Fuel Pump Kill (Yellow, Black Stripe).
H3/6: Red: Ignition 1 Input (30amp Fused)
H3/7: Pink/White: (30) Flex Relay Output
H3/8: Pink/Black: (87a) Flex Relay Input
H3/9: Red/Black: Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30amp Fused)
H3/10: Empty from factory.


Useful Links:
DEI Wire Installation Sheet (PDF): http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ ... _08web.pdf
DEI CRX Wire Guide (Google Docs): https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid= ... PyPe&hl=en
DEI MUX Port Info (PDF): http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=45 ... stcount=12
Last edited by Security on Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:20 am, edited 27 times in total.
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Re: How-to: Stealth Alarm Install in a CRX/EF

Postby Security » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:55 pm

Space saver.
Last edited by Security on Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:15 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby audioroach » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:36 pm

Why go through the trouble when the work has been done for you already in regards to the horn activation?
The brown/black wire is for horn output (beep horn during triggering). Why not use that to feed a realy to trigger the air horns

There are quite a few wires that you need for normal operation of the system that you are eliminating ( ie ignition input,etc). No need to flash headlights - not a good idea anyway use park lights and unit is already wired with a mini flasher onboard. Great idea...just need a few revisions.
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby Security » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:23 pm

audioroach wrote:Why go through the trouble when the work has been done for you already in regards to the horn activation?
The brown/black wire is for horn output (beep horn during triggering). Why not use that to feed a realy to trigger the air horns

There are quite a few wires that you need for normal operation of the system that you are eliminating ( ie ignition input,etc). No need to flash headlights - not a good idea anyway use park lights and unit is already wired with a mini flasher onboard. Great idea...just need a few revisions.


I'd rather not use the horn/horn honking. I'd rather just use the siren and air horn (which will be loud enough). Just personal preference.

I wasn't planning on doing a starter kill, and a Fuel Pump Kill instead (maybe no kill switch at all, since I normally pull the Main Relay and will be doing a clutch switch 'kill' switch)...
Why isn't it a good idea to use the headlights vs the parklights? Headlights will draw more attention, I think.

Not to mention I'm out of money for alarm parts and need to get it wrapped up. :/
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby audioroach » Sat Aug 13, 2011 10:45 pm

Ummm that wire is for horn output....it can be used to pulse an oem horn or AIRHORNS like you desire. Just use a relay to trigger the horns. I do it all the time ( if available) the combo works great....
the more noise the better.

In security the more redundant the systems are...the better the security. Thieves are not going to hang
around and try to figure out why a car wont start or how to shut up a siren after a few seconds....more of a chance that they could be caught in the act.

Headlights won't draw more attention...Sorry. They require more current than park lights plus
"flashing" then will lead to system failure of the light circuitry or your alarm system (if not properly wired).

I commend you on taking the task and doing this project.....its a very daunting one at that.
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby acmoc » Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:10 pm

Where do I wire the harness to trigger the factory horn?

I know which wirte it s on my alarm but I don't know where yo splice into on my car.
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby JDMCrx91 » Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:21 am

I loove stealthy alarm install. Also install I didn't see him say but proximity is great also and hidden out side and inside siren.
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby Gr8_EE8 » Fri May 22, 2015 6:59 am

So, how is your install project going? Funny, I'm on a very similar task, except I'm using a 5706V and am not skipping on the glass break sensor. I also have power locks, and will be doing a door key tumbler delete by swapping in Accord rear door handles (left rear to front right, vise-versa) with armor plates behind them to prevent the famous Honda screwdriver-jam break ins. I will be doing the install during the next week. Been sitting on the parts for a year, just needed to get around to tearing out my interior and installing sound deadening (a few hours left!).

So what mounting location did you choose? In general terms at least... sssh!
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby Gr8_EE8 » Mon May 25, 2015 2:48 am

No hijack intended, just a contribution to the cause. Maybe sharing some ideas will enhance the thread. If not, you can tell me to sod off and start my own . :blah:

Here is mine, mounted and ready for the soldering station. The relays are from a junkyard Nissan, they are modular and top quality. They are my automotive relay of choice, you should check them out next time you are farting around the salvage lot. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x1tla4wrr0l3kmw/AADe4lws9mMwYFSDjEqXsAwca
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby NovaVTEC » Mon May 25, 2015 4:44 pm

I understand the functionality you require, but would hesitate to put this monster in...

I look at it differently. I want them to have easy screwdriver access. My security comes from the fact that they won't ever be able too start my car, while there is no single wire added or part removed anywhere. At least the door is still in one piece instead of busted up from trying to defeat your armor plate after they give up on that and smashed your window. They *will* get in.
Nobody cares about a siren these days so that's pretty useless too.

You can add power locks by buying new and cheap Rover 25 power locks which are a direct fit replacement. Controlled by an EG control module you now need to just wire in one connection from that box to your FOB module for lock/unlock control.

The GPS just needs the antennas and power for it to work and alert.

Makes for a very stealthy and secure setup me thinks...
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Re: How-to: Viper 5901 Stealth Alarm Install in CRX/EF

Postby Gr8_EE8 » Tue May 26, 2015 12:02 am

Way I see it, they can go ahead with smashing the window and try for the stereo- it is the investment in the engine bay that I am trying to protect. I don't want them driving away with it.

I agree with the siren. They are not appreciated at all here in Germany. I just got a piezo siren to mount inside the cab to give the thief a headache and not be noisy on the street. I will get a SMS if the car moves and the 2-way will alert me if I am within 1600 meters. I enjoy redesigning wiring, so I know full well that nobody will take the time to figure my replacement harnesses out. Have you met Arduino? :twisted:

System has a backup battery just like OP, and the GPS has a couple days of standby power internally. One SMS, and I know the car's location, speed, and direction.
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