Here I will attempt to address any and all issues that come up when trying to figure out what axles to buy for your B-series swap in an 88-91 CRX. NOTE: This article applies to a CRX chassis with factory D-series engine that was swapped out. EDM/JDM (EE8/EF8) chassis with factory B16 engines should seek alternate advice, or simply rebuild your existing axles.
Ultimately, it doesn't matter what B-series engine or transmission you have installed in your car, the axle fitment comes down to the intermediate shaft that you have. For the transmission side of the car, any 1990-2001 Integra non-ABS axle will fit. If you have ABS axles you'll just need to remove the ABS ring; knock it off with a chisel and a hammer. The driver's side is where it gets tricky.
If you have a 1st gen (OBD-0) B16A swap that came with a Y1 transmission, you very likely have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. Or, if you have discovered that 1990-1993 Integra axles don't fit or bind on the driver's side, you probably have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. In this case, you have a few options for a new driver's side axle.
Ok, now with that out of the way, there are only two other varieties of intermediate shaft. The most common is the 1990-1993 Integra, in which case you simply use 90-93 Integra axles. If your swap has a cable transmission other than a Y1 (S1, A1, J1, YS1) then you probably have one of these.
The other variety is the 94+ Integra intermediate shaft, which is very easy to spot because it has a male end on both sides. If you bought a swap which came with a hydraulic transmission you most likely have one of these. In this case, 1994-2001 Integra axles will work.
If your swap was pieced together, or if you are unable to determine which intermediate shaft is in your car, here's how you can tell:
The SiR (Y1) intermediate shaft is on top, the 90-93 Integra intermediate shaft is on the bottom.
The Y1/SiR intermediate shaft is stamped "SH3" above the female end, and the 90-93 Integra mid-shaft is stamped "SK7-J" in the same spot. It's hard to see in this picture, but this one says SH3.
You can break out the measuring tape too, this is an SH3. An SK7-J shaft is about 5/8" shorter.
*A note for HF cars: If you are doing a B-series swap into a CRX HF, you will need to upgrade your knuckles. It's a good idea not just for the brake upgrade, but because the HF hubs simply won't accept the larger B-series axles. Knuckles from a CRX Si, 90/91 Civic Ex or 90-93 Integra are all solid choices.
*A note for 90-93 Integra intermediate shafts: The SK7-J is the manual transmission variety that you need. An SK7-N is for an automatic.
If you are having trouble seating the axles into the hubs when using CRX Dx or Si knuckles, first make sure there is no ABS ring on the axle, and then remove the dust shield from the inside of the hub. It pops off with a screwdriver.
Ultimately, it doesn't matter what B-series engine or transmission you have installed in your car, the axle fitment comes down to the intermediate shaft that you have. For the transmission side of the car, any 1990-2001 Integra non-ABS axle will fit. If you have ABS axles you'll just need to remove the ABS ring; knock it off with a chisel and a hammer. The driver's side is where it gets tricky.
If you have a 1st gen (OBD-0) B16A swap that came with a Y1 transmission, you very likely have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. Or, if you have discovered that 1990-1993 Integra axles don't fit or bind on the driver's side, you probably have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. In this case, you have a few options for a new driver's side axle.
- 1. If you already have the appropriate length Y1 (SiR) driver's side axle, you can buy new CV joint components for a 1990-1993 Integra and rebuild your current axle.
2. You can build a custom driveshaft using an 88-89 Integra axle with a 90-93 Integra outboard CV joint.
3. You can call Raxles and order hybrid swap axles. The part number is RAXBGEN4Y1. They will only sell these as a pair, and the cost is $320 for both axles. Much overpriced in my opinion, but it's one of the only places you can buy an SiR driver's side axle rebuilt with new components.
4. You can buy a 90-93 or 94-01 Integra intermediate shaft and buy a driver's side Integra axle of the same year. If you go this route, you must get a 5-speed mid-shaft, automatics won't work. Also, if you're using a 94+ mid-shaft on a cable transmission, you'll need a new 94+ seal where it enters the tranny. The Honda part number for this seal is 91205-PL3-A01.
Ok, now with that out of the way, there are only two other varieties of intermediate shaft. The most common is the 1990-1993 Integra, in which case you simply use 90-93 Integra axles. If your swap has a cable transmission other than a Y1 (S1, A1, J1, YS1) then you probably have one of these.
The other variety is the 94+ Integra intermediate shaft, which is very easy to spot because it has a male end on both sides. If you bought a swap which came with a hydraulic transmission you most likely have one of these. In this case, 1994-2001 Integra axles will work.
If your swap was pieced together, or if you are unable to determine which intermediate shaft is in your car, here's how you can tell:
The SiR (Y1) intermediate shaft is on top, the 90-93 Integra intermediate shaft is on the bottom.
The Y1/SiR intermediate shaft is stamped "SH3" above the female end, and the 90-93 Integra mid-shaft is stamped "SK7-J" in the same spot. It's hard to see in this picture, but this one says SH3.
You can break out the measuring tape too, this is an SH3. An SK7-J shaft is about 5/8" shorter.
*A note for HF cars: If you are doing a B-series swap into a CRX HF, you will need to upgrade your knuckles. It's a good idea not just for the brake upgrade, but because the HF hubs simply won't accept the larger B-series axles. Knuckles from a CRX Si, 90/91 Civic Ex or 90-93 Integra are all solid choices.
*A note for 90-93 Integra intermediate shafts: The SK7-J is the manual transmission variety that you need. An SK7-N is for an automatic.
If you are having trouble seating the axles into the hubs when using CRX Dx or Si knuckles, first make sure there is no ABS ring on the axle, and then remove the dust shield from the inside of the hub. It pops off with a screwdriver.