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AJHS2011's 1991 Crx Si

22K views 73 replies 13 participants last post by  AJHS2011 
#1 ·
I've finally picked up my dream Crx after years of searching. I've owned a 90 Si, 91 Dx, and 88 Dx. I found a good deal on a clean body of a 1991 Si which came already boosted.

I had no idea the interior was all there, I had no idea how clean the body was, and I had no idea it didn't have rust. When I showed up, I was beyond suprised. Even before test driving her, I knew she was coming home with me.

Long story short, the previous owner took very good care of her even though I do not agree on some of the body pieces he put on. It sat in his garage for 7 years. I have all the paperwork that was done to the motor by shops.
His main mechanic passed away and after that he lost interest in finishing the build. So, I am taking over.

My original plans was to get a clean 1991 Si and vitara build a d16z6 with over 20 psi. Well, I will be building that on the side while I drive with this motor.

Immediatly after arriving at my house, I removed the hideous rear bumper and horrifying z3 fenders. Next is to find a decent looking hood. As you can tell I am not a fan of the body kits. I had a 88-91 rear bumper laying around so I put that on.

Here is a small list of work done:
-d16a6
-block bored over .10
-cometic head gasket
-ported and polished head
-titanium spring retainers
-stage 3 cam
-(Lift) intake 383 exhaust 374
-(Duration) intake 264 exhaust 258
-adj cam gear
-oversized valves
-Eagle H-beam rods
-SRP pistons
-7Ib flywheel
-Skunk2 throttle body
-Skunk2 intake manifold
-LSD phantam grip transmission
-ARP fasteners
-full MSD ignition with 2-step
-Greddy profac-B electronic boost controller
-Full aluminum radiator
-OBX Fuel Rail
-xspower turbo, wastegate, bov, exhaust manifold, intercooler
-All new gaskets, belts, everything else internally.
-Guages (RPM & shift light, boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure)

I know I'm missing tons of stuff but it's late and I have to get up at 5am so I'll stop there.

And last but not least, for you picture whores out there...
Interior pics to come on a later date.









 
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#6 ·
sicknick said:
:)

TPZVTECREX said:
looks good man, pics of the car all together?
Searching for stock fenders and hood. I have a brand new still in wrapping front bumper. I really need a 90-91 rear bumper but I did this to my 88-89 last night.



Tian90crx said:
nice!
Good engine specs, be sure to replace all those ebay turbo pieces whenever you can :)b
Yeah man that's the plan :) last night I chunked all the msd crap. Not really chunked but it's out of the Rex.

JDMCrx91 said:
Congrats. Have fun. And if you need help with your vitara build we are here. I just did mine:) pics on my build thread.
Thanks bud, and don't worry I've been following your tread ever since I joined. Will be using it for the vitara build.

Sorry the multi-post is mixed up I'm on my iphone and haven't got around to getting the tapatalk app.

And I don't have much time to work on it like I want too, I got on full time with the machine shop so I might get an hour or two each day.

Stay tuned I have big plans :)
 
#9 ·
street_ride14 said:
Replace the turbo, wastegate, bov, and exhaust manifold with quality parts
Yeah man, really wanting a holset. :)b

I will be replacing those after I save up a good bit of money. I should be getting a raise here pretty soon I hope so nonetheless this build will be getting quality parts.

Pretty sure I can get away with the intercooler though.
 
#10 ·
4 months since I've updated.

Sending my ECU in to a fellow member to see if I fried it.

It just seems like I don't have the time to mess with it like I use to. Then again working full time during the week and working on other peoples cars on the weekends leaves me with no time to mess with my Hondas.

:?
 
#11 ·
I pulled the a6 out today and I'm unsure of what will take it's place. I know I will be going obd1 for sure. I think I will do what I've been wanting to do and build my z6 for it. Keep the si cable transmission I'm sure. But nothing is set in stone as I'm starting automotive school and funds will be short.

 
#14 ·
Nice start :)b

One thing that rings a few bells in my head though, is the engine internals. What makes you believe what he says is in there, actually is? To me that turbo kit was pieced together as cheap and chinese as possible, ive never seen so many vacuum lines on a D16, worm clamps, fmu fuel management etc. But then theres $2500+ in engine work and parts inside the stock engine with top of the line parts?

Just curious
 
#15 ·
AJHS2011 said:
Here is a small list of work done:
-d16a6
-block bored over .10
-cometic head gasket Stick with a oem y8, its cheaper and you will have less issues.
-ported and polished head Who si porting it? A clean z6 hean might make more power depending how much power you looking at.
-titanium spring retainers Most aftermarket titanium retainers are junk, Ferrea or Manly are the best
-stage 3 cam What brand?
-(Lift) intake 383 exhaust 374
-(Duration) intake 264 exhaust 258
-adj cam gear
-oversized valves Not needed
-Eagle H-beam rods
-SRP pistons
-7Ib flywheel To light for turbo, dont go less then 12lbs.
-Skunk2 throttle body JUST NO!
-Skunk2 intake manifold If you like a manifold that is poorly cast, will fall apart, sure....
-LSD phantam grip transmission HELL NO! More like phantam slip
-ARP fasteners Only head studs and rold botls, flywheel should be oem!
-full MSD ignition with 2-step Will cause more issues then its worth, STAY AWAY!
-Greddy profac-B electronic boost controller Convert to obd1, most ems have boost by gear built in
-Full aluminum radiator
-OBX Fuel Rail JUNK
-xspower turbo, wastegate, bov, exhaust manifold, intercooler Chuck the manifold and turbo, the rest is ok-ish
-All new gaskets, belts, everything else internally.
-Guages (RPM & shift light, boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure) Remove a/r and replace with wideband
Hope that helps, there is a lot that is not needed and may cause you more harm then good.
 
#16 ·
KevinEF7 said:
Nice start :)b

One thing that rings a few bells in my head though, is the engine internals. What makes you believe what he says is in there, actually is? To me that turbo kit was pieced together as cheap and chinese as possible, ive never seen so many vacuum lines on a D16, worm clamps, fmu fuel management etc. But then theres $2500+ in engine work and parts inside the stock engine with top of the line parts?

Just curious
Yeah man I'm gonna break it down to see what all is there for sure. Yes I did remove an ton of vacuum lines. I want to do this build right and I will make sure everything that needs to replaced gets replaced.

crxvtec91 said:
AJHS2011 said:
Here is a small list of work done:
-d16a6
-block bored over .10
-cometic head gasket Stick with a oem y8, its cheaper and you will have less issues.
-ported and polished head Who si porting it? A clean z6 hean might make more power depending how much power you looking at.
-titanium spring retainers Most aftermarket titanium retainers are junk, Ferrea or Manly are the best
-stage 3 cam What brand?
-(Lift) intake 383 exhaust 374
-(Duration) intake 264 exhaust 258
-adj cam gear
-oversized valves Not needed
-Eagle H-beam rods
-SRP pistons
-7Ib flywheel To light for turbo, dont go less then 12lbs.
-Skunk2 throttle body JUST NO!
-Skunk2 intake manifold If you like a manifold that is poorly cast, will fall apart, sure....
-LSD phantam grip transmission HELL NO! More like phantam slip
-ARP fasteners Only head studs and rold botls, flywheel should be oem!
-full MSD ignition with 2-step Will cause more issues then its worth, STAY AWAY!
-Greddy profac-B electronic boost controller Convert to obd1, most ems have boost by gear built in
-Full aluminum radiator
-OBX Fuel Rail JUNK
-xspower turbo, wastegate, bov, exhaust manifold, intercooler Chuck the manifold and turbo, the rest is ok-ish
-All new gaskets, belts, everything else internally.
-Guages (RPM & shift light, boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure) Remove a/r and replace with wideband
Hope that helps, there is a lot that is not needed and may cause you more harm then good.
Thanks for the help bud I'll definitely need this info. I will be going obd1 whether I use the same motor or swap to a z6. Don't worry, the first thing I chunked was the MSD set up. Not sure about the cam but I'll let you know after I break the motor down. I'm tossing all the turbo mess as well except for the intercooler.

I would like for you to explain about the flywheel though. I'm new to the turbo scene so any help is definitely appreciated.

Anyone know if the Eagle rods will work in a z6? Possibly the SRP pistons too?
 
#17 ·
AJHS2011 said:
KevinEF7 said:
Nice start :)b

One thing that rings a few bells in my head though, is the engine internals. What makes you believe what he says is in there, actually is? To me that turbo kit was pieced together as cheap and chinese as possible, ive never seen so many vacuum lines on a D16, worm clamps, fmu fuel management etc. But then theres $2500+ in engine work and parts inside the stock engine with top of the line parts?

Just curious
Yeah man I'm gonna break it down to see what all is there for sure. Yes I did remove an ton of vacuum lines. I want to do this build right and I will make sure everything that needs to replaced gets replaced.

crxvtec91 said:
AJHS2011 said:
Here is a small list of work done:
-d16a6
-block bored over .10
-cometic head gasket Stick with a oem y8, its cheaper and you will have less issues.
-ported and polished head Who si porting it? A clean z6 hean might make more power depending how much power you looking at.
-titanium spring retainers Most aftermarket titanium retainers are junk, Ferrea or Manly are the best
-stage 3 cam What brand?
-(Lift) intake 383 exhaust 374
-(Duration) intake 264 exhaust 258
-adj cam gear
-oversized valves Not needed
-Eagle H-beam rods
-SRP pistons
-7Ib flywheel To light for turbo, dont go less then 12lbs.
-Skunk2 throttle body JUST NO!
-Skunk2 intake manifold If you like a manifold that is poorly cast, will fall apart, sure....
-LSD phantam grip transmission HELL NO! More like phantam slip
-ARP fasteners Only head studs and rold botls, flywheel should be oem!
-full MSD ignition with 2-step Will cause more issues then its worth, STAY AWAY!
-Greddy profac-B electronic boost controller Convert to obd1, most ems have boost by gear built in
-Full aluminum radiator
-OBX Fuel Rail JUNK
-xspower turbo, wastegate, bov, exhaust manifold, intercooler Chuck the manifold and turbo, the rest is ok-ish
-All new gaskets, belts, everything else internally.
-Guages (RPM & shift light, boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure) Remove a/r and replace with wideband
Hope that helps, there is a lot that is not needed and may cause you more harm then good.
Thanks for the help bud I'll definitely need this info. I will be going obd1 whether I use the same motor or swap to a z6. Don't worry, the first thing I chunked was the MSD set up. Not sure about the cam but I'll let you know after I break the motor down. I'm tossing all the turbo mess as well except for the intercooler.

I would like for you to explain about the flywheel though. I'm new to the turbo scene so any help is definitely appreciated.

Anyone know if the Eagle rods will work in a z6? Possibly the SRP pistons too?
What are your power goals? D16 Eagle rods will work in any D16.
 
#18 ·
crxvtec91 said:
AJHS2011 said:
KevinEF7 said:
Nice start :)b

One thing that rings a few bells in my head though, is the engine internals. What makes you believe what he says is in there, actually is? To me that turbo kit was pieced together as cheap and chinese as possible, ive never seen so many vacuum lines on a D16, worm clamps, fmu fuel management etc. But then theres $2500+ in engine work and parts inside the stock engine with top of the line parts?

Just curious
Yeah man I'm gonna break it down to see what all is there for sure. Yes I did remove an ton of vacuum lines. I want to do this build right and I will make sure everything that needs to replaced gets replaced.

crxvtec91 said:
AJHS2011 said:
Here is a small list of work done:
-d16a6
-block bored over .10
-cometic head gasket Stick with a oem y8, its cheaper and you will have less issues.
-ported and polished head Who si porting it? A clean z6 hean might make more power depending how much power you looking at.
-titanium spring retainers Most aftermarket titanium retainers are junk, Ferrea or Manly are the best
-stage 3 cam What brand?
-(Lift) intake 383 exhaust 374
-(Duration) intake 264 exhaust 258
-adj cam gear
-oversized valves Not needed
-Eagle H-beam rods
-SRP pistons
-7Ib flywheel To light for turbo, dont go less then 12lbs.
-Skunk2 throttle body JUST NO!
-Skunk2 intake manifold If you like a manifold that is poorly cast, will fall apart, sure....
-LSD phantam grip transmission HELL NO! More like phantam slip
-ARP fasteners Only head studs and rold botls, flywheel should be oem!
-full MSD ignition with 2-step Will cause more issues then its worth, STAY AWAY!
-Greddy profac-B electronic boost controller Convert to obd1, most ems have boost by gear built in
-Full aluminum radiator
-OBX Fuel Rail JUNK
-xspower turbo, wastegate, bov, exhaust manifold, intercooler Chuck the manifold and turbo, the rest is ok-ish
-All new gaskets, belts, everything else internally.
-Guages (RPM & shift light, boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure) Remove a/r and replace with wideband
Hope that helps, there is a lot that is not needed and may cause you more harm then good.
Thanks for the help bud I'll definitely need this info. I will be going obd1 whether I use the same motor or swap to a z6. Don't worry, the first thing I chunked was the MSD set up. Not sure about the cam but I'll let you know after I break the motor down. I'm tossing all the turbo mess as well except for the intercooler.

I would like for you to explain about the flywheel though. I'm new to the turbo scene so any help is definitely appreciated.

Anyone know if the Eagle rods will work in a z6? Possibly the SRP pistons too?
What are your power goals? D16 Eagle rods will work in any D16.
I wanna shoot for 300 hp with a full z6. I understand it will take a lot but like I said it's what I'm shooting for I know nothing is set in stone so we will see. Like I said before I want to use vitara pistons and possibly a holset turbo. If the rods work like you say then ill use those. :)b
 
#19 ·
300hp is no issue at all and you will need less then you think!

As for holset and vitaras, I know a thing or 2 about them 8) if all goes will I should break the current vitara record come june or split the block while trying.

Despite my use of the vitaras I do not recommend them any more, as I personally feel they are not as reliable as they were.

If I where you I would stick with any foraged piston, srp, cp, wisco as they will hold up better in the long run.

Last I recently made 300hp on a friend z6 with a super basic setup.

Vitaras/eagles
arp head studs
Gm3 turbo
Stock head! Stock intake manifold, stock valves, stock springs, and stock retainers.

The only thing I would do differently would be to repace the springs with something stiffer as we where limited to 7,500 rpm. In a way it might not be a bad thing as vitaras dont like the abuse of higher rpms it seems like.
 
#20 ·
crxvtec91 said:
300hp is no issue at all and you will need less then you think!

As for holset and vitaras, I know a thing or 2 about them 8) if all goes will I should break the current vitara record come june or split the block while trying.

Despite my use of the vitaras I do not recommend them any more, as I personally feel they are not as reliable as they were.

If I where you I would stick with any foraged piston, srp, cp, wisco as they will hold up better in the long run.

Last I recently made 300hp on a friend z6 with a super basic setup.

Vitaras/eagles
arp head studs
Gm3 turbo
Stock head! Stock intake manifold, stock valves, stock springs, and stock retainers.

The only thing I would do differently would be to repace the springs with something stiffer as we where limited to 7,500 rpm. In a way it might not be a bad thing as vitaras dont like the abuse of higher rpms it seems like.
Well if these are SRP pistons in the a6 like he says they are, they would work in the z6 correct? So basically I could get away with using those?

For you the vitaras might not be reliable because of your goals lol but if I use a basic set up I shouldn't have an issue.

Before I do anything I'm gonna break down the a6 and see what all I have.
 
#21 ·
AJHS2011 said:
crxvtec91 said:
300hp is no issue at all and you will need less then you think!

As for holset and vitaras, I know a thing or 2 about them 8) if all goes will I should break the current vitara record come june or split the block while trying.

Despite my use of the vitaras I do not recommend them any more, as I personally feel they are not as reliable as they were.

If I where you I would stick with any foraged piston, srp, cp, wisco as they will hold up better in the long run.

Last I recently made 300hp on a friend z6 with a super basic setup.

Vitaras/eagles
arp head studs
Gm3 turbo
Stock head! Stock intake manifold, stock valves, stock springs, and stock retainers.

The only thing I would do differently would be to repace the springs with something stiffer as we where limited to 7,500 rpm. In a way it might not be a bad thing as vitaras dont like the abuse of higher rpms it seems like.
Well if these are SRP pistons in the a6 like he says they are, they would work in the z6 correct? So basically I could get away with using those?

For you the vitaras might not be reliable because of your goals lol but if I use a basic set up I shouldn't have an issue.

Before I do anything I'm gonna break down the a6 and see what all I have.
Anything wrong with the a6? If not why not just put a z6 head on it and call it a day?



Also if you get a holset make sure you do a twin scroll setup as it does help with spool time.

Redline is twin scroll and black is single


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