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Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

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Re: Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

Postby sloppyclock » Sat Apr 04, 2020 4:16 am

Hey folks long time no see, been busy in the last few months so I haven't really gotten anything done plus it's been cold in the garage so I have no motivation to do anything whatsoever. But as usual in those few months I've been acquiring some parts whenever I see some deals.

Picked up some Spoon rep mirrors for about $20CAD from the local speed shop that did a huge garage sale of a bunch stuff they had laying around. I'm curious to see what the view is going to be like but I do know someone who makes rhd lenses so may have to get those if needed.
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One day at work one of my co workers was talking to me and mentioned swapped his motor out of his Element for a lower km one and asked me if I wanted it for $250. So as usual I impulse bought it and now was planning on doing a K24/20 again.
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Now that I had acquired that motor I wouldn't need to get new bolts and sensors for my swap since I was trying to keep it pretty budget still. The K24 block and K20 block I had were disassembled and were missing almost all the bolts and sensors so this would cut down the cost quite a bit. I started to look for a set of used tsx piston and rod combo for the K24 block to replace the Element ones and so began my nightmare for the next month or two.

The first set I bought I got off the k20a Facebook page I bought towards mid Jan were supposed to be shipped within a few days but didn't get a tracking number after a week. Messaged the seller and said he had some personal things come up which is fine, things happen so I kept on waiting. Another week went by and still nothing, so I messaged him again and he said he got into an accident with his truck and it's in the tow yard and the receipt with the tracking number is inside. He was supposed to send it after he went to the yard to grab it and yet again no tracking number. So at this point its been around 3 weeks at this point and I knew that I wasn't going to be getting this parts so I filed a claim and ended up getting my money back. The was the first time in all my years of buying stuff off the internet where someone tried to scam me.

The second set of pistons and rods I got was from the same Facebook page but different member, great to deal with, sent me photos and videos of the pistons and rods and told me he would get them out same day. Sent the money and got a tracking number next day as promised. About 2 weeks go by before they show up and once I opened the package all hell broke loose. The guy took all the end caps off the rods and just tossed them in the box along with the bolts and put the pistons and rods in with no padding or anything. So the whole time the bolts and caps were flying around damaging the pistons and caps during shipment. Not to mention the caps were all mixed up now and can't correctly match up which cap is for which rod :yell: :yell: :yell:

So now at this time I was just fed up with everything and decided to just scrap the idea of going K24/20. Now I was planning on using the K20 block since It had pistons and rods already in it and just needed an oil pump and pan then the bottom end would be complete.

During the whole piston and rod ordeal I did find a good deal on an K20 aluminum pan and Type S oil pump kit from another member on the k20a fb page. I know using an used oil pump isn't the greatest idea but the listed said the pump was brand new when put on the engine and only had a few thousand miles on it before he parted out his car. It also was a complete Type S kit so it had the chain tensioner, guide, chain, windage tray and bolts for everything plus it was already notched for a K24 block. I stuck up a deal with him since he also had the aluminium pan for sale. I was worried that the pan and pump kit would show up damaged like the the pistons but to my relieve they came in fine. I brought the pump and chain to work to clean them in the parts cleaner before they were to get installed
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Yet again one day while I was scrolling on the k20a fb page I noticed someone selling a TracTuff billet thermostat cover which was something I was looking to get down the line. But yet again the price was too good to resist and impulse bought it.
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Around this time it was starting to warm up so I took the time one day to clean up my side of the garage which was a complete mess. Didn't take a before photo but I cleaned it up a lot and organized a few things to free up a lot of space.
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After that I had some motivation so I pulled the motor out yet again and took the subframe off so I could get the rear mount welded up. I only got it tacked on last time to confirm placement so I took it back to my buddy where he adjusted the mount and welded it in place.
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Since now the plan is to use the K20 again I went to look for a cylinder gasket kit for it since it had every gasket I need for the head and came with a head gasket. I was going to order the oem Honda one thru work but one day I found one from a Canadian parts retailer that had one for half the cost as oem and even listed the oem part number. I was curious to see if it actually was an oem gasket kit or not so I bought it along with a Hondata intake manifold gasket and Hybrid Racing RBC to PRB throttle body adapter.

When the packaged showed up I quickly opened to see if that gasket kit was in fact the oem Honda one but it turned out to be an aftermarket one. I wasn't disappointed or anything I kinda figured it would be for that price but I had to take a chance. I did some Googling and from what I gathered the company who makes my gasket kit is called Ishino in Japan and sell parts under Stone. If what I read is correct Ishino is the manufacturer for a lot of Honda's gaskets so the quality of them is very good if not the same as oem.
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At this point it's almost mid March then the whole covid-19 thing ramps up and things are changing fast. I just finished my aerospace course and had an interview with a company a week before which I had high hopes for, things were looking great and the motor didn't need a lot of work so I was on track to getting the car running by the time I wanted it to but things started to fall apart, fast. Hours got cut at my part time job at first then ended up getting laid off all together, the company I interviewed for put the hiring process on hold and the Canadian dollar is dropping fast. This threw a wrench in my plans very quickly and now I've pretty much put the car on hold until next year. I was really pushing to get it out this year but with how things are looking it's just not a smart choice and track dates are up in the air currently and may not run this year at all.

For about a week I was pretty bummed out and lost all motivation to do anything again but decided to get up off my ass and put some work into the crx since I had the time to do so. I put the subframe back on and dropped the motor back in for like the 5th or 6th time along with the rbc manifold and swirl pot. I didn't put the throttle body adapter on yet but that would cause some new issues to be find only a few days later.
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A few days later I tossed the front and rear suspension on minus the struts, borrowed a pair of 15x8 Work CR01 w/ 225/50/15 tires off my buddy and dropped the car on the ground. I wanted to gauge what the car would look like with that setup since I was planning on running that tire and wheel size anyways. Once I stood back after lowering the car on the ground I just looked and admired. The front height was near perfect of what I wanted it to be maybe slightly higher or lower but the back needed up come up a little bit to match but looked sick the way it was. I quickly put the headlights, corner lights, bumper and hood on and just admired it for awhile. Seeing it like this really motivated me to keep on going after seeing it on jack stands for so many months. (Sorry for the quality of photos at this point, my iPhone 6s isn't holding up as well as it used to)
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The next day I went back into the garage to toss on the adapter plate and the rsx throttle body that I had kicking around for a few months and came into this issue which I kinda thought I would run into. I didn't have enough room for the throttle cable bracket that would bolt onto the throttle and for the cable itself, the swirl pot that I had bought is in the way and it looks like there would be an issue with having an intake installed too.
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TracTuff offers two styles of swirl pots for the K20 and the one I got is V2. The V1 has the tank further back beside the valve cover so that would have cleared the cable and bracket. So normally you would just sell the swirl pot and get the V1 right? Well that's kind of easier said then done since a lot of the TracTuff products are customized to order and people may want different options. Plus once again I got this piece for a hell of a deal and there was no way I would be getting that again so I did the crazy thing and sold the rbc manifold and adapter. Why? I figured it was easy to sell the manifold and to get something else vs selling the swirl pot and ordering a new one, mainly due to the fact I can save money on a used manifold whereas I would have to order the swirl pot new.

I started to look into other manifolds that would work and my only option would have to be a center feed manifold since it does not come close to the tank and the intake would not run by it either. Yeah I know, the rbc is better suited for a stock K20 with bolt ons and the center feed is crazy overkill but whatever. After some looking I set my eyes on the Xcessive Manufacturing intake manifold mainly due to the fact that it was the cheapest option out there. :rofl:
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Once again while scrolling the k20a fb page I stumbled upon someone selling this manifold w/ the optional velocity stacks and Q45 throttle body. I didn't really want the Q45 throttle body so I sent him an offer for it without it and to my surprise it took it! I got it sent to the border along with my Type S harness and Karcepts fuel rail that I also bought a few weeks before and will be picking them up after the border re-opens.

Now that I have this manifold I started thinking about doing the K24/20 build again and maybe saving up for an used cnc ported head and cams to really make use of this manifold since it turns out that it has the big boy 58mm intake runners vs the 50mm that is also offered. So this build may or may not snowball really fast lol. I'm hoping that the border opens up within the next month so I can bring some more updates but that's all for now folks.
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Re: Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

Postby AZCRXSI » Sat Apr 04, 2020 12:19 pm

Wow, what a crazy ride along! Covid19 is screwing everything up for everyone. argh.

Here is hoping to get things settled in for yourself and then are able to move forward again.

The whole time I was reading and thinking about the build... yes! no... definitely not... yes! no... no... maybe... no... yes! nope... yet something continues to pop up and keep you going. :-)b

lol
"Mango Bango", 1990 CRX Si -- Bought on 10/01/11, with 228,116 miles.
1990 CRX Si BUILD THREAD

Liquid Yellow 2005 MINI Cooper S (Daily Driver)
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Re: Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

Postby sloppyclock » Sat Apr 04, 2020 12:33 pm

AZCRXSI wrote:Wow, what a crazy ride along! Covid19 is screwing everything up for everyone. argh.

Here is hoping to get things settled in for yourself and then are able to move forward again.

The whole time I was reading and thinking about the build... yes! no... definitely not... yes! no... no... maybe... no... yes! nope... yet something continues to pop up and keep you going. :-)b

lol

Yeah that's for sure, hope everyone is doing OK during these tough times.

Lots of ups and downs with this one but wouldn't be fun without them haha, I will prevail this time around no matter how long it takes.
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Re: Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

Postby sloppyclock » Thu Jul 23, 2020 2:30 am

Hello everyone, thought I'd post an update of what I've been up to for the past few months since the last post.

First off, hope everyone has been well during these times. I ended up getting the job I was talking about and started at the end of April. Finally making good money now and I've been treating myself well as you'll see further down this post. Acquiring parts as increased ten fold I'd say and I've decided to upgrade a lot of things where I originally tried to save a few bucks here and there.

Off the top of my head I've ordered (* parts received):

PCI front upper control arms
Radium direct mount fpr
Honed developments booster delete*, front and rear geometry kit, rear camber arm, solid rack bushings, trailing arm gusset kit
Hardrace inner and outer tie rods*
Karcepts 36mm hubs*
OEM tail light gasket kit*
TracTuff swirl pot*, overflow tank*, oil chain baffle*, main girdle plug*
Unit2 Fabrication baffled steel oil pan*
Rywire brake line tuck kit*, chassis harness adapter
Autopower roll bar
Osaka JDM V2 fenders
Hardrace rear lower control arms
Mfactory 1.0way plated lsd
Clear bumper light lenses
ASR rear subframe brace + 24mm sway bar kit
Custom indoor cover
Hybrid Racing v2 shifter*, shifter bushings*
Checkerd Sports hub*
Karcepts fuel rail + iacv block off plate*
Acuity shifter selector springs*
x2 15x8 +22 Work CR01*
x2 245/40R15 Hankook RS4*
x2 225/45R15 Hankook RS4*

As you can see, I've been knocking things off the list fairly quickly. On the flip side I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car since I'm pretty tired after work these days. I've managed to do a few things here and there so lets get on to it.

In the last post I talked about how I had that issue with my swirl pot and my rbc manifold, so I went a bought a center feed manifold. That was stuck at the border along with a few other things for awhile but I did manage to get them after I got a courier company to go grab my packages for me. During that time I actually ended up trading it along with my swirl pot for another rbc manifold plus cash because the center feed manifold had 58mm runners. I was hoping they were the smaller 50mm but they were the bigger version which was way too big for a stock motor and I didn't want to spend the money on a built motor. To go with the rbc manifold I ordered another swirl pot, but one that would work with the manifold and an overflow tank to go along with it.

After I got the center feed from the border I quickly tossed it on to see what it would look like and to see if I could even run it if I wanted to. Turns out it would've been a pretty tight fit, so I was better off with the rbc manifold in the end. The manifold had this really nice textured finish which Im pretty sure wasn't factory but I did like it
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For my shifter setup I was originally planning on using a stock shifter box with stock cables with upgraded shifter bushings to save a little bit of cash but after getting hired I decided to upgrade. A buddy of mine had a hybrid racing v2 rsx shifter box for sale so I asked how much he wanted shipped for it since I'm up in Canada. He gave me a great price and I had to have it. He even toss in a shift knob which I quite like, feels nice in the palm of my hand. Right away you could tell how much more solid this was over the worn out oem shifter box I had. Thinking about getting another center console trim piece to replace mine since I trimmed it for the bigger oem box.
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To go with the hybrid racing shifter box I also ordered hybrid racing shifter bushings for stock cables. They're a cheap upgrade for stock shifter cables and get rid of the old worn out ones. Unless you're cables are stretched there isn't a need to get the race spec cables in my books. Installation is super easy, only hard part was taking out one of the old rubber bushings. I even managed to save a few bucks by finding an open box set from an online retailer that I frequently use.
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After getting the new shifter in I quickly cleaned out the interior of the car since it had been used as a storage unit for a few months. A quick vacuum and wipe down did the trick for the interior so I tossed on my Checkerd Sports hub that had been at the border with my manifold. I used to have one of these a few years ago with the horn function but they seemed to be discontinued for EF/DA up until a little while ago when Raul mentioned he was taking pre orders for a small batch of EF hubs again. I knew I had to get one even though I would have to figure out how to wire in my horn button. There's also a slim version which I'm debating about getting if there's any left by the time I want to get one.
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After getting the interior back in again I noticed that my column is kinda pushed towards the right when I was looking closely at it. I can't seem to get it to straighten out for the life of me. I thought I had the steering joint on backwards so I flipped it around. Apparently I had it right the first time and flipped it back to what it was before and make sure that the column sat as deep as possible into the joint. I managed to get it to straighten out a little bit but it's still not the greatest.
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One piece I planned on using from the get go was the Honed Development booster delete kit. I had one for my old ek civic but sadly never got the chance to install it before the car was written off. This booster delete isn't like the other kits on the market which are a flat plate on the firewall. This one pushes the master upwards and outwards slightly to achieve proper pedal ratio for manual brakes and you drill a new pivot point in your brake pedal. To go with the booster delete I have that 7/8 ek master cylinder I got awhile back, which is what they recommend if you use 282mm rotors or aftermarket calipers.
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Another thing I like to do is browse yahoo auctions late at night to see if there's any cool stuff worth buying. One night I found a set of oem tail light gaskets for an ok price. They were cheap and I weren't excepting them to be since the small gaskets were discontinued but no one was bidding so I scooped them up. As soon as I sent the money for those I found out that RestoTuner (https://www.restotuner.com/product-page ... gasket-set) has started to make reproduction tail light gaskets for the fraction of the price that I got mine for. Needless to say I'll be ordering a set or two of those.
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Awhile back I got my package containing my TracTuff order and couldn't have been more excited. You definitely get your moneys worth with his products and they look amazing as well. The rbc manifold has to be shaved just a little bit more for the billet neck but it almost fits perfectly as is. I got the overflow with the option to mount in the factory location and its a tight fit with the headlight! Just barely clears it.
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Another thing I got with my TracTuff order was this low profile XRP 90 degree -16 fitting. I was worried about space between the radiator I was planning on running and the 90 degree -16 fitting I would have to add onto the TracTuff billet thermostat housing I have. With this low profile fitting I can eliminate the need to have a big 90 degree fitting attached to the -16 male fitting that the housing comes with and save a inch or two of space between it and the radiator. The fitting was stupid expensive but I needed it so what can you do.
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Another place where I did some changes was to my oil pan. Originally I was going to run the stock oem aluminum type s pan with some sort of baffle, most likely the clockwise motion one since I heard great reviews about it. That was the plan until I saw the steel baffled pans that Unit2 Fabrication offers. You get a brand new steel pan (no core needed) with his baffle that is actually bolted into the pan so you can remove it for whatever purpose and its reasonably priced. According to him it has 7 trap doors in it compared to Moroso's 5 in their baffled pan.
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One thing I had a hard time deciding on was what wheel and tire combo I was going to run. I kept on going back on forth on it up until a few weeks ago when a friend of mine told me he was selling his extra pair of Work CR01 in 15x8 +22. I wasn't expecting them to be cheap but when he told me the price I had to scoop them up before anyone else did, they were too good to pass up. To match these I plan on ordering another pair of Work CR01 but in 15x9 +10 T Disk. T disk is what Work calls their big brake face option when custom ordering wheels. The 15x8 are an A disk which is the standard face and have a 57mm lip according to Work's wheel chart. To match the 57mm lip in 15x9 T disk, +10 is needed according to the chart so that's where the Osaka JDM fenders come into play. Those are 3cm wider than stock so I hope they fit under there. If not, I'm gonna have to get the Tracklife fender cut outs and space out the fender slightly.
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For tires I decided to go with Hankook RS4. After talking to a few people and reading some posts online I decided to go with the RS4s since they were a pretty balance between grip and tire life. Won't be the fastest guy out there on the track but I also won't be spending a lot of money replacing them constantly. I went with 225/45R15 for the 15x8 and got a pair of 245/40R15 for the 15x9s that I plan on ordering. I got these tires for really cheap thru my friend who works at parts at the local Benz dealership. His cost was about $20-$30 cheaper a tire compared to anywhere else I looked online.
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Just last week I got my brake line tuck kit in from Rywire and tossed it in over the weekend. I forgot to mention that I was using a ek master on my setup so they sent lines for an ef master but I made it work. I had limited spots to put the bulkhead fitting on the firewall since the hydro conversion took up the area where I wanted to put them and they had to clear all the pedals. The spot isn't the greatest but it'll do. For the rear lines I moved them inside from the firewall and bent them to where my pedal assembly was and just threaded on the lines. Once again, not the greatest but it'll do.
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That's all for now, I'll try and keep this updated more often as parts slowly start rolling in.

Stay safe everyone!
Last edited by sloppyclock on Thu Jul 23, 2020 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sloppyclock's Rice Rocket

Postby AZCRXSI » Thu Jul 23, 2020 11:49 am

Dang, nice list and parts. You've been busy. :-)b
"Mango Bango", 1990 CRX Si -- Bought on 10/01/11, with 228,116 miles.
1990 CRX Si BUILD THREAD

Liquid Yellow 2005 MINI Cooper S (Daily Driver)
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