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Rear Disk Brake Conversion

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Rear Disk Brake Conversion

Postby hanamiitaku » Mon Nov 25, 2019 8:53 am

Hi All,
Disclaimer: This information is for entertainment/educational purposes only. Do not try this at home. For your safety, I'm not a professional so don't listen to me I'm some random guy from the internet.

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There are two ways to do this, most likely as the 1st Gen Integra parts become rarer, the scarebird adapter would be your best option. This info applies to 1G CRX and 3G Civics but not the Si. So you are either going with the 1G caliper bracket or the scarbird adapter. The difference is the integra's bracket has a brake cable mount.

Key Notes:
-The 3G Civic Si has the same-looking trailing arm as the 1G Integra, might be possible to direct bolt the trailing arms but I would not know since I done it for the 1G CRX. Part number is different, but could be something super minor like brake hose mount or something.
-No the 1G Integra's trailing arm will not fit on the 1G CRX, it's too short. Even if you manage to get it on your wheel won't fit.
-In my case I needed to install 3mm washers on the caliper mounts on the driver side after installing aftermarket rotors, results may differ you'll have to test and tweak to fit.
-You'll need to either bend the brake hose mount on the trailing arm, or cut it off because it's in the way and your rear caliper brakes won't fit.
-No lowering of the fuel tank needed.
-Since you're messing with brake fluids and bleeding, do the entire brake system at this time. The front integra brakes are a direct fit and is my front setup. If you have the time I would also install brake booster/master cylinder from the integra. I don't see much size difference with the brake proportioning valve but if you want to, go for it. No, the master cylinder from the integra does not fit with your stock booster, must be both parts. If you can get a hold of the dual piston Acura legend front calipers, they do have the same caliper mount spacing, but fit may need a little customization.

Method 1: Grafting parts from 1st Gen Integra

Parts Needed:
At the bare minimum you need from the integra is the caliper bracket including the brake cable mount, the axle bolts, the caliper mounts, and the brake rotor screws. Everything you can buy new. I would also get the original pads or buy factory new, aftermarket pads are dusty, you're better off using original.


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Integra's rear caliper mount bracket with the 4 axle bolts from each side
You only need to tap out the driver side, the passenger side you dont have to tap if you're taking the integra's entire spindle
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Caliper mount and pads. This part not as rare but save yourself the trouble and get it with shims.
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Four rotor screws. Rotor is in the image for reference you'll probably rather get new rotors. The screws might not be readily available at dealership since they're special order. Save your self the trouble of trying to find four M6 1.00 x 25mm machine screws.

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The four bolts from the axle beam, view from the beam

-Bearing Hub Assembly / Spindle / Caliper Bracket / Rear Caliper Brakes / Parking Brake Cables / Brake Hoses (grouped these because you'll probably get the whole parts, spindle not technically needed since it's same as your CRX save yourself the need to tap out studs)
-Four Axle beam bolts from the Integra. CRX axle beam bolts are too sort to mount the caliper mount. You need the four axle beam bolts on the driver side, the four on the passenger side is already mounted on the spindle/bearing assembly. However if for some reason you did not take the spindle from the integra, then consider that 8 axle beam bolts needed.
-Four brake rotor screws from the integra. Try not to damage these when you remove them from the integra, they're longer than the standard honda rotor screws. They're special order if you have to buy them from dealership. If frozen, the punch in and hammer can knock it loose before unscrewing.
-Two or more 3mm thick Washers depending on your fit.

-Optional:
Civic Del Sol parking brakes, make sure you have the lock pin and clip to connect to the caliper.
Rubber bushing
Bearing grease

Tools needed:
-Jack stand/wheel chocks and other safety gear like eye protection and gloves
-Club Hammer and Pin Punch
-10,12,14,17mm sockets with extension
-10mm flare wrench
-32mm axle socket with breaker bar (or just use your jack stand pipe as leverage)
-Phillips screw driver and flathead screw driver
-A club hammer and pin punch tool
-A torque wrench if you like to do things properly
-Brake grease, brake fluid, brake bleeder tool

Removing from the Integra:
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Free the spindle with your 32mm axle socket and breaker bar.
Insert a 14mm deep socket with extension through the rear brake rotor holes designed so that you can remove the four bolts that the whole rear caliper assembly is mounted to the axle beam.
On the driver side tap out the axle beam bolts with a club hammer and pin punch tool to remove them from the integra without damage to the bolt threads; take the nuts for these bolts for these too even though you won't need necessarily them.

1) Unmount your old parking brake cables. At your center console parking brake area is a lid with two Philips screws to remove the center console, remove the center console then you can access and remove two 12mm bolts that hold the brake cables. Underneath the car unmount all 6 of the 10mm bolts that mount the cables to the chassis, you'll have to remove one heat shield with three 10mm bolts behind the exhaust to free the brake cables. Once unmounted take off the brackets you'll need to reuse them. You don't have to drop the gas tank to remove the parking brake brackets, in any worst case scenario you can use a needle nose vise-grip to break free the bolt and the rest you can spin off.

2) Unmount your drum brake and spindle.
First loosen your brake hose bolt with 10mm flare wrench, make sure you have something to catch the brake fluid. Remove the brake hose clip then unscrew and remove the brake hose.
*After removing the brake hose, bend the brake hose mount by hammering it down to at least 90 degrees or cut it off. Hammering is sufficient.

Image below shows the brake house mount that's welded on to the trailing arm. Hammer in the direction in red.
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Next, pop off the Axle Nut cap and remove the axle nut with a 32mm axle nut socket/breaker bar. Slide out the drum and remove the four 14mm nuts that hold in the spindle. Note that the passenger side spindle is sandwiched between the axle beam and trailing arm, so you have to move the axle beam outward a bit to free the spindle.

3) Mounting the Spindle/Bearing Assembly

On the passenger side the axle bolts are bolted inward from the spindle
On the driver side, axle beam bolts protrude outward and are longer than the passenger side.

The passenger side trailing arm has a small ~4 inch stabilizer arm with bushings you'll need to loosen the plate off the arm so that you can you move the trailing arm out enough to insert the integra spindle/bearing assembly which sandwiches between the trailing arm and and the axle beam.

The driver side does not require unmounting of the trailing arm. The spindle/bearing assembly rests out the outside of the axle beam bolts as opposed to the passenger side. Tap out your CRX axle beam bolts and tap in the new ones. For the ones you can't really reach with a hammer and punch, once you tap enough you can use two closed end wrenches to pull the stud all the way through while using the spare nut from the integra, then use your original unstressed nut to bolt on the spindle/bearing assembly. Mount the integra spindle.

Before installing the bearing assembly inspect the bearing grease if more is needed or dried out, add grease. After installing the spindle, the axle nut torque is 134ft lbs.

4) Mount the calipers / Brake cables / pads rotors
Mount your parking brakes just as you removed it and reuse your parking cable mounts with it going through the trailing arm rubber grommet. The Integra parking brakes work fine just slightly long but it doesn't get in the way of anything but if going with scarebird it might be a problem since there is no brake cable mount on the bracket. It would be ideal to install some type of rubber strip / bushing at the parking brake mounts since these are not the factory cables, the parking brake may have a little friction at the mounts. After mounted attach the brake cable to your caliper.

Here is the visual of slack with the Integra's factory brake cables. I can live with the amount of slack and going with it because it's known to work. If you can't live with the slack, try the Civic Del Sol / Si brake cables.
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Compress the caliper. The factory integra caliper can be compressed turning the piston clockwise, technically you need a special tool but in reality not really, you turn it with a flathead.

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Install your brake calipers: torque the two 14mm caliper bracket bolts to 28 ft lbs. Grease the caliper pins and clean the pin boots before mounting the caliper. Grease the contact points before mounting the brake pads, grease the rotor screw with anti-seize to save you a headache in the future, Torque the two 12mm caliper to caliper bracket bolts to 16ft lbs.
In my case, I needed to install four 3mm washers on the caliper mount bolts on the outer side, to shift the brake calipers out by 3mm.

5) Bleeding the brakes.
Pull your parking brake lever several times and press on the brakes then bleed in order: front driver side, rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger.
Bleed screw: 7ft lbs.

6) Test fit
Spin the rotor and check for excessive rubbing, you should be able to turn the rotor by hand without much effort and you should be able spin the wheel when the wheel attached. If rubbing you will need to add a pair of washers at the caliper mount bolts. If space is needed, I would use wilwood 240-1159 Caliper Spacer Washer or common steel - zinc oxide washer commonly used on axle bolts. If further troubleshooting needed start by re-compressing the piston.

In this illustration I had to add a pair of 3mm washer on the driver side at the caliper mount in red.
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Test your parking brake cables pulling it several times and spin the wheel. Obviously, the parking brake should lock the rotor when engaged, and able to rotated when disengaged. When all is clear, mount your wheels at 80ft lbs torque.

7) Test run
Go for a test run and afterwords check the temperature of your axle nuts. If they're hot then there is excessive rubbing and will dry out your bearing grease. If you test fit properly, it should be working properly.
hanamiitaku
 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2019 12:48 am

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