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So this 87 crx si is my first honda

13K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Crxpdx503 
#1 ·
I payed 400 bucks for a crx si its got 70 thousand miles.But i need work.

CONS:
Lets put it this way, once I gutted it the seatbelts came with whatever left of the sheetmetal there was holding it on.
Floor pan needs from the firewall to the hump leading to the decklid area basically, give or take.
Ive got no windshield wiper lever its been ripped off down to the column.
Ive got no climate control levers.
No sunroof power and no sunroof glass, assembky seems to also need replacing rusted mounting brackets
the center console some kid back in the day painted it white and wrote crx all over it.
need a rht sd fender
I need like all body sd mouldings.
the list goes on.

PROS:
ive got a drive train with 70k on it starts and runs needs adjustment to idle maybe tps is out.
all sheet metal body panels do not seem to have any dents at all...

So im thinking about going to hack town and giving this car life again. And recording the process im on a really tight budget so im thinking about cutting up some hoods to make my floor pan kinda budget. But seal it up and paint and at least do the labor to make it look as pretty as i can. Undercoat everything clean it up and make something cool outta this thing.
If this is not the right section please move post.

I will post pictures of damage, and what ive done below.
 
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#4 ·
Baker said:
With the lack of available parts for this car, from the sounds of it, you're going to dump a ton of money into it just to get it put together.
Not impossible, but quite a task if you're on a small budget.
Sounds like a good candidate for a dirt oval or Lemons race.
Im looking more to refurbish what i have to get it to pass a state inspection. I know some items such as the fender and sunroof/ closeout, will be a couple hundred.
But all the rust repair seems to be inside or under mouldings. I mean labors free I do bodywork so the mechanical work is prolly gunna bite me if anything. but yeah not going for showroom
 
#5 ·
lpl258 said:
But all the rust repair seems to be inside or under moldings. I mean labors free I do bodywork
That is very typical with these cars, rot seems to be worse than you can actually see.
Behind the moldings and plastic cladding, rear wheel arches and floorpans get bad in the 1st gen.
The entire front nose, minus the hood, is plastic.
As far as labor being free, even if you do it yourself, it's still not really "free".
 
#6 ·
Baker said:
lpl258 said:
But all the rust repair seems to be inside or under moldings. I mean labors free I do bodywork
That is very typical with these cars, rot seems to be worse than you can actually see.
Behind the moldings and plastic cladding, rear wheel arches and floorpans get bad in the 1st gen.
The entire front nose, minus the hood, is plastic.
As far as labor being free, even if you do it yourself, it's still not really "free".
Do you think id be better off ebaying the parts? Id have a 600 budget to clear. Theres more rust than you would imagine. Theres alooot of good**** here still on this thing. full doors(no mirrors), hatch, all glass qrts, windshld, Doors no cracks/ chips. interrior may clean up but not cracked ethier where trim peices might begin a split. Idk maybe im better off. Id pull the engine tranny and stuff id need for a roller. What do you think?

The rust is that bad integrity of the cars structial ability to sustaim a side impact with patches might result injuries
 
#7 ·
lpl258 said:
Do you think id be better off ebaying the parts? Id have a 600 budget to clear. There's more rust than you would imagine.
For these cars, if there is evidence of rot, there is almost always more that is hidden.
With as much work as you say it needs & the lack of available parts for these things, I think you'd be money ahead, and your time be better spent parting this thing out.
Is the nose on this any good and NOT cracked? The front nose header panel, the piece between the hood and headlights, and the front fenders notoriously crack on these things.
Part it out, make some money, scrap the junk.

eBay is a route you could take, you could also take some good pics of the parts cleaned up, and try to sell them on redpepperracing.com, which is a 1st gen Crx forum.
 
#8 ·
Baker said:
lpl258 said:
Do you think id be better off ebaying the parts? Id have a 600 budget to clear. There's more rust than you would imagine.
For these cars, if there is evidence of rot, there is almost always more that is hidden.
With as much work as you say it needs & the lack of available parts for these things, I think you'd be money ahead, and your time be better spent parting this thing out.
Is the nose on this any good and NOT cracked? The front nose header panel, the piece between the hood and headlights, and the front fenders notoriously crack on these things.
Part it out, make some money, scrap the junk.

eBay is a route you could take, you could also take some good pics of the parts cleaned up, and try to sell them on redpepperracing.com, which is a 1st gen Crx forum.
Ok i thought about it, im gunna go ahead and start chopping up door skins and remaking the rocker/ inner structure. Because i wunna drive this rust baby.
Ill be rust treating all weekend after whats weak is gone of course, ill put links up in reserved post. Before and after. Its not gunna be pretty
 
#9 ·
Anyone know if the 2nd gen crx changed the frame support or rocker. Theres 2 crxs somone is giving for free. An 88 and 91 free. there trash but maybe the what i need is there. If its the same i could cut out and weld instead of fabricating sheetmetal.
 
#15 ·
Sounds like the drivetrain is good. Why not find a non-running car to drop it into? Even if someone has a bare body that is stripped to the bones, you might be able to use what's good on your car to build a good running car. But there is NO WAY it is worth it to try to restore the body you have unless you are an absolute wizard with this sort of thing.
 
#16 ·
StorminMatt said:
Sounds like the drivetrain is good. Why not find a non-running car to drop it into? Even if someone has a bare body that is stripped to the bones, you might be able to use what's good on your car to build a good running car.
This is your best option, if you can find a decently clean 1st gen shell.
 
#17 ·
PROS:
ive got a drive train with 70k on it starts and runs needs adjustment to idle maybe tps is out.
all sheet metal body panels do not seem to have any dents at all..

Is about what you have going for you. The colimnswitch (which is damn near impossible to locate a replacement of) is 100$. Ecu 100$. Thermacter ( exhaust manifold) 120$.. plate for sunroof 100$ see where this is going? Now if it were me I would snag the engine and the panels etc. Your pros... And either A. Buy my CRX (87 si silver. Needs column switch, dent pulled, (minor) door pannel stripe replaced...) or another one as they come up for less then 500 quite often .
Or. B. Sell them parts ya go there to me.
 
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